My Bioscope - Viewfinder to the world

Spiti Valley - Article published in Hindustan Times

2011-10-14T19:01:00.001+05:30

Himalayan Patterns @ Spiti

Leading Indian daily, Hindustan Times, recently published an article written by me on Spiti (Himachal Pradesh). You can read the article here.

Leap of faith!

Titled 'Discovering the charm of Spiti', it is a slightly modified version of the article I had written on this blog last year immediately after returning from Spiti - one of the most satisfying trips of my life!
Hope you enjoy reading the article. I also urge you to visit the place at least once in your lifetime for the spectacular sights it offers and the wonderful people who live there!

As always, I would like to personally thank each one of you for having patronised my blog and for supporting me. A special thanks to the team at Incredible Spiti for getting this article published in Hindustan Times, which is an esteemed newspaper of our times.

P.S. - The pictures published alongside the article are not mine. They have been mistakenly credited to me.

Kaas Plateau - Article published in Asian Age

2011-06-04T12:02:00.000+05:30

An article written by me on Maharashtra's Kaas Plateau, along with some pictures taken by me, was published yesterday in the Delhi edition of Asian Age newspaper.

Asian Age article

I would like to personally thank each one of you for having patronised my blog and supported me. You can also read the original write-up, which I had published in October 2010, on this very blog here. The newspaper article is a remixed version of the same.

Also do not forget to visit the place in September!

Thanks once again :)

Ranthambhore National Park II - Charge in the Rajbagh Lake

2011-04-30T18:17:00.010+05:30

Portrait of T-17 / Sundari Tigress

It was a cloudy evening on our third day in the Ranthambhore National Park. As I looked heavenward, I said - well, bad light to add to our woes! Thank you! So far on our current trip, we had tasted limited success with tiger sightings - none worth photographing (see details at the end). Hence, for our fifth safari in the jungle, we were at the same time desperate for a decent photography opportunity as well as nonchalant about the prospects. We were getting closer to a tiger with every passing safari and we still had two more to go after this one!

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Ranthambore National Park, please click Here.

Also read about my previous visit and a detailed note on Ranthambore National Park Here.

For the evening we were allotted the scenic Zone 3. In the morning, during our tour of Zone 2, we happened to learn that the tigress T-17 (affectionately called Sundari) had been spotted around the Rajbagh Lake. We were hoping to sight her again in that area, praying that she would have chosen a spot in the adjacent bushes to rest during the day. We were completely oblivious to the fact that Goddess Amba (one of the most worshipped Goddesses in Hinduism and who has the tiger as her vehicle) had already given her blessings for this safari and what awaited us today was something we would cherish for a lifetime! As we neared the Rajbagh Lake we saw a few jeeps stationed near the bushes with the tourists inside animatedly motioning towards something behind the rocks. When we neared the spot, the guide pointed towards a stepped rocky area and said in a voice full of excitement "Sir, woh dekho pathar ke peeche T-17 tigress hai" (Sir, the T-17 tigress is sitting behind the rocks over there). We were struggling to spot her as the rock was also surrounded by bushes. Intermittently she would bob her head and that is when we would catch a glimpse of the stripes. There was not much happening for a good 20 minutes. An army of jeeps and canters had come rushing to the spot in the meanwhile. Our driver Mahesh, quietly moved the jeep away from the din and parked it in such a position that if the tiger were to move he would be best positioned to manoeuvre the vehicle.

Mahesh

I was peering through my binoculars and suddenly heard the rustle of the leaves and saw the tigress beginning to make a move. The whole crowd was now in a state of heightened alertness - like the army officers on battlefront! What followed was absolute madness! No sooner would the tigress take a step in a particular direction, than the battery of vehicles would start moving in that direction... come to a screeching halt and then move backwards again... trying to match the tigress' move step for step. Mahesh kept his cool all the while and began driving only when the tigress had started moving decisively. It was a mad scramble out there as everyone was trying to out manoeuvre the other and there were some close escapes. In the meanwhile, the tigress was walking straight behind the spot where she was resting...a path which would lead her to the other side of the Rajbagh Lake. The drivers sensed this, and rushed to the spot from where she would emerge.

T-17 walking beside the Rajbagh Lake

The light was bad and I was worried whether I would be able to get good shots. But the moment the tigress emerged in plain sight I started firing away. I also spared a moment or two to soak in the magnificence of the animal - the sight of a tiger always has such a profound impact on the beholder that he / she gets lost in the moment and needs to be stirred out of his stupor! The mad race for a vantage position amongst the jeeps was still on and sometimes we would have a clear view of the tigress and sometimes not. As such we were shooting from a moving jeep. However, luck was to be completely on our side from here on. We were helped, in large measure, by our driver Mahesh who manoeuvred the jeep like Lord Krishna manoeuvring Arjun's Chariot on the battlefield in Mahabharata. He drove on steep inclines by the track side and also managed to fox other jeeps to give him room to drive ahead. We were now ahead of everybody else, including the tigress. A supremely vantage position as the tigress was walking straight towards us - giving a full frontal view, sans the radio collar!!!

Here I must take a small detour and tell you an interesting fact about T-17 / Sundari. T-17 is the 4 year old daughter of the legendary tigress Machali (Machli) and lords over the territory around the Padam Lake and Rajbagh Lake. She has a radio collar around her neck which is used to undertake scientific studies on aspects such as tiger movement, extent of area covered, etc. It is strictly NOT used for tracking the tiger for the benefit of tourists during tiger safaris. The presence of a radio collar poses a peculiar problem for photographers... in that, nobody would love to have a picture of a wild tiger with a collar around its neck! The solution is to either photograph her from the front or at an angle such that the collar is not visible... but then, the angle is not under one's control since the tiger is the King of the jungle and it does not move as per a tourist's whims and fancies!

T-17 treads slowly on the vehicle track

The moment T-17 arrived close to our jeep, she was barely 15 feet away, she nonchalantly glanced towards us (Bah! Tourists - I could read it in her eyes!) and I managed to get some nice portrait shots of this sundari (beautiful) animal. She then moved out onto the vehicle track and sat down a few metres away from us. The jeeps behind us were yelling, because for them the tigress was almost out of sight! She sat there for a few minutes (her backside towards us), wagged her tail, glanced around and then she stood up and started walking, albeit slowly. Everybody instantly realised that she had now begun stalking the three unsuspecting Sambar Deers who were cooling themselves and feasting on the grass inside the Rajbagh Lake. She slowly descended from the tracks into the bushes abutting the lake. We were so positioned that our jeep, the tigress and the deers were all along the same line of sight!

T-17 Stalking the Deers - damn the light!

For around 20-30 minutes, which seemed excruciatingly long, she was stealthily making her way towards the deers. At times even we couldn't spot her - she was so well camouflaged. The light was fading fast now, damn! It wasn't to be long though. She was now within striking distance. There was an eerie calm all around. The spectators were watching in mute silence, numbed by the proceedings and the heavenly sights on display. It was to be a rare moment for everyone.

T-17, however, appeared to have revealed her cards a bit too soon as one of the Sambar Deers sighted the tigress, perhaps in the nick of time, and gave out a loud alarm call. At this very moment the tigress leaped into the waters, creating a huge splash akin to a tidal wave. But the Sambar Deers proved a bit too agile given that they got a few crucial moments between the sighting and the leap to run for their lives. The tigress charged in the waters after the larger of the three deers and also chased it for a few yards outside the waters in the woods. But, finally, she had to give up on the hunt. It was a kill not to be, sigh! The whole episode was over in less than 15 seconds!

Sambar Deers running for their lives!

All this while we had concealed our excitement and focused on capturing the wonderful, action-packed moments in our cameras. Once the tigress disappeared into the woods, we all broke into animated conversation and like sports commentators were giving suggestions on how things could have been different for the tigress. But the tigress, just like sportsmen, cares a damn for the commentators. We looked at each other's pictures, revelled in the memories and thanked the lady luck, our driver Mahesh and the guide. Back in the hotel, I showed the pictures to Desh Bandhu Vaid (the Guru of Ranthambhore). He was happy at what transpired and remarked that the sight of a tiger charging inside the Rajbagh Lake is a rare one and a photographer's delight!

For me Ranthambhore had once again lived up to its reputation. Long live the Tigers of Ranthambhore!

General brief on our trip and sightings -
We sighted six different tigers during our trip -
Day 1, Evening - Zone 4 - Nil
Day 2, Morning - Zone 3 - missed T-17 by a whisker (she crossed over from Jogi Mahal to Zone 2)
Day 2, Evening - Zone 1 - T-24 Male and his female partner T-39 (they were mating) who we couldn't sight. T-24 was resting far away in the bushes near Kala Pani area.
Day 3, Morning - Zone 2 - Nil
Day 3, Evening - Zone 3 - T-17
Day 4, Morning - Zone 4 - Mating pair @ Berda: T-6 male and T-41 female - far away in the bushes! Also sighted Machali (T-16) near Adi Daggar but again far away in bushes!
Day 4, Evening - Zone 1 - Mating pair T-24 male and T-39 female. We had clear view for a while but from atleast 100 metres away!

Other mammals sighted - Nilgai (Bluebull), Sambar Deer, Chital / Spotted Deer, Wild Boar, Striped Hyena (in the night when out for a drive), Common Langurs, Pair of Mongoose.

Mr. (right) & Mrs. (left) Painted Sandgrouse

List of birds spotted during the trip - Bronze Winged Jacana, Shikra, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Darter, Little Heron, Indian Pond Heron, Black Kite, Black Winged Stilt, Great Thick-knee, Common Greenshank, Pied Kingfisher, White Throated Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Asian Palm Swift, Black Drongo, Long Tailed Shrike, Red Vented Bulbul, Jungle Babbler, Purple Sunbird, Chestnut Shouldered Petronia, Greater Painted Snipe, Common Moorhen, White Browed Fantail, Collared Scops Owl, Long Billed Vulture, Red Headed Vulture, Painted Stork, Lesser Whistling Duck, Crested Serpent Eagle, Woolly Necked Stork, Painted Spurfowl, Eurasian Collared Dove, Rock Pigeon, Asian Paradise Flycatcher (female), Black Redstart (Id doubtful), Asian Koel (male), White Bellied Drongo, Painted Sandgrouse (male & female), Grey Heron, Intermediate Egret, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Crested Bunting, Spotted Dove, Laughing Dove, Grey Francolin, Oriental White-eye, Indian Peafowl, Great Tit, Rufous Treepie, Large Billed Crow, Brahminy Starling, Common Myna, Common Tailor Bird, Oriental Magpie Robin, Indian Robin, Common Iora, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Red Wattled Lapwing, Pied Myna, Greater Coucal, Black Rumped Flameback, Eurasian Thick-knee, Indian Cormorant, Great Cormorant, House Crow and House Sparrow.

Copyright Maneesh Goal. All Rights Reserved.

Street Photography in Vasai

2011-04-04T22:35:00.005+05:30

I am happy when my best friends have their arms around me :)

"When you photograph people in colour, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in black and white, you photograph their souls!" — Ted Grant

Street photography is all about wandering, with a camera strung around your neck - observing, soaking in the surroundings, and capturing the moments that define the people, their moods and their surroundings, often in a candid setting. Wikipedia beautifully puts it thus - Street photography uses the techniques of straight photography in that it shows a pure vision of something, like holding up a mirror to society. Street photography often tends to be ironic and can be distanced from its subject matter, and often concentrates on a single human moment, caught at a decisive or poignant moment. On the other hand, much street photography takes the opposite approach and provides a very literal and extremely personal rendering of the subject matter, giving the audience a more visceral experience of walks of life they might only be passingly familiar with. The best part about street photography is that it doesn't need fancy equipment! Often a point & shoot camera or even a mobile phone camera can do the job. All one needs is the eye to observe, the heart to feel the situation and the mind to quickly frame the scene!

The above photograph was taken inside the Tungareshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, near Vasai, where we had gone birding a few weeks ago. A photographer needs to be alert all the time about possibilities even while he may be out to specifically shoot something else, in this case birds. While that day didn't prove particularly lucky for us with respect to capturing birds, we made the most of the opportunity by indulging in some candid / street photography of people who visit the Tungareshwar temple as well as residents of the place. Later in the day we also visited the Bassein Fort, located beside the Arabian Sea in Vasai. There's a beautiful fishermen's village nearby and luckily we managed to get some good street shots of its residents! - even though our objective was water birds!

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Vasai, please click here.

Picture of the day: Rajasthani folk musician

2011-02-24T21:25:00.001+05:30

A Rajasthani folk musician enjoys a light moment during his performance in Mumbai. This picture reminds me of Indian farmers' smiling faces that we typically see on fertiliser sacks and posters / hoardings of Government's rural schemes :)

See more of Rajasthan here.

Ovalekar Wadi - abode of the butterflies (Part 2)

2011-02-05T15:59:00.002+05:30

Common Jezebel Butterfly

Our second outing at Ovalekar Wadi (read about the place and our first trip here) also proved to be somewhat of a damp squib. The light, though, was excellent this time around. But, the chill in the morning resulted in the butterflies taking a bit too long to wake up from their slumber and busy themselves with the task of looking out for breakfast!

Nonetheless we managed to sight the following butterflies: Great Orange-tip, Common Jezebel, Common Bush Brown, Common Sailor, Skipper, etc. We also got some nice macro shots of flowers (with dew drops), caterpillar, dragonfly, etc. I guess we will need more outings to be able to explore the near 100 species of butterflies that can be seen at Ovalekar Wadi.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Ovalekar Wadi-II, please click here.

Picture of the day: Hired cooks!

2011-01-14T20:26:00.003+05:30

Men who toil to make our festivals sweet... all with a smile on their face, never mind the sweat and the grime! Clicked during the middle of last year.

Wish you all a very happy Makar Sankranti :)

Rewind: A photographic journey through 2010

2011-01-06T12:52:00.004+05:30

Sunset at Pimpalgaon Joga Lake, Malshej Ghat

The year 2010 may have come to an end, but the time to look back and enjoy some of the great moments of 2010 has only just begun! The advantage a photographer has is that he / she can capture those moments and present them with his / her own unique perspective.

In an effort to share with you some of the sights / moments I have been privileged to witness in 2010, I have put together a compilation of some of my Best clicks of 2010. This compilation is based on both viewer feedback received on Flickr as well as my discretion. Every picture is like a baby and it is difficult to chose the better one. Hence, I have taken the liberty and been generous with my pickings.

Here is the link to the Flickr gallery - My favourite clicks in 2010
Alternatively, see it on Flickriver in in-line format - My favourite clicks in 2010

There's another interesting compilation that I have put together, titled the People of India. It is a collection of mostly street photographs and a few self-portraits (ahem!). Not all are from the year 2010, but most are. In case you are interested, you can see them Here on Flickr (Flickriver link).

I hope you have a great time viewing them. Please feel free to comment on the pictures. In case you come across a picture, which in your opinion, does not deserve to be in the gallery then do let me know since it would help me in trimming the gallery.

As an aside, 2010 was the second year of 'My Bioscope' and during this year it went from being merely a photo-blog to a travel & photography blog. Consequently the readership and hits ('eyeballs' as they say in Silicon Valley) have also gone up. Today a bulk of our readers come via search engines. I would also like to personally thank each one of you who has been reading 'My Bioscope' regularly - through Google Followers, Facebook Fan page, RSS Feed, Bookmarks, etc. and I look forward to your continued patronage...!

Cheers to 2011! May you all have a wonderful, healthy and a fun filled year ahead :)

Note (if viewing in Flickr): In order to view the pictures, you could click on the 'slideshow' option displayed at the top right corner of the page. In case you have bandwidth problems then you could click on the picture thumbnail to view a bigger version of the picture, then click on it again to view it in 'lightbox' format and then click 'next'. OR best see it in Flickriver.

Malshej Ghat, the Prince of Sahyadris! - a perfect weekend getaway from Mumbai!

2011-01-01T12:30:00.001+05:30

Malshej Ghat, view from the plateau

Not many would believe it, but Mumbai is still a blessed place! As Mumbaikars we are indeed privileged to have places like Malshej Ghat at a driving distance of only 3 hours.

Malshej Ghat is a quaint hill-station located ahead of Kalyan, at a distance of about 150 Kms from Mumbai. Cosily nestled in the Western Ghats of Pune District, it is a place which has acquired fame (and some notoriety) for the unparalleled sights it offers during the monsoon months. Indeed the best time to visit the place is during monsoons when the swirling wind, heavy showers, verdant mountains and numerous waterfalls weave an atmosphere of magic in these jungles. But, on weekends, these delights also attract a lot of merry makers for whom the idea of enjoying this nature's bounty is to consume bucketfuls of liquor and then create ruckus in broad daylight along the streets and at the plateau beside the MTDC Flamingo Hill Resort. Aside from this, Malshej Ghat is a place where the waves of commercial exploitation are yet to reach. It has only two hotels worth the name - MTDC Flamingo Hill Resort and Su-shant Resort. Consequently, it is an ideal destination for people who want to spend time in solitude and soak in the tranquil atmosphere.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Malshej Ghat, please click here.

Malshej Ghat Panorama

The place is equally impressive even during the non-monsoon months. In fact Malshej Ghat is a place which has something to offer for every class of traveller. If you are of the adventurous kind, then there are numerous trekking points around here - Harishchandragad (a place which every trekker worth his salt swears by, being one of the most difficult points in this part of the world), Shivneri (birth place of the warrior king Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj) and the numerous nature trails in the rolling hills around Malshej Ghat.

For wildlife lovers, the place is a paradise of sorts. Located in the Western Ghats, one of the few biodiversity hotspots in the world, it is home to several species of birds (resident and migratory), butterflies, flowers, reptiles, etc. including its most famous visitor - the beautiful Flamingos, who have perhaps rightfully chosen this place to breed during the monsoon months. The area around Pimpalgaon-Joge dam (located about 5 Kms from the MTDC resort) is an excellent birding hotspot which attracts a host of migratory birds during winter. One could even go Leopard tracking in the dense jungles nearby or in the adjacent Junnar area - Wikipedia tells me that "Junnar taluka in Maharashtra has the largest density of leopard population within a 500 km² area", Gulp!

Finally, if you are of the Wodehousian type, looking to spend a quiet day away from the hustle-bustle of the city, just relaxing, repairing and enjoying the simple aspects of life - seeing time fly by, listening to the sweet melodies of the birds, walking bare-feet on cold grass, feeling the gentle wind lapping on your face, reflecting on the how's & why's of life - then Malshej is perhaps the place you need to head out the next weekend.

For the moment we fell in the second and third category. The occasion was my wife's birthday and we were looking to spend a day out without much fanfare. We decided on the place only two days before and thanks to the off-season, managed to get bookings at the MTDC Flamingo Hill Resort (where otherwise getting bookings is very difficult). We got moving at the crack of dawn and as the soft sunlight filtered in through the trees we could see the air and landscape change immediately after we passed Kalyan. Mountain peaks draped in winter mist, monkeys (Rhesus Macaques) waving out to us from the edge of the road, winding and undulating roads, sweet earthy scent of the Indian hinterland wafting from the villages (still unscathed by modernity), and spicy Misal Pav with cutting tea (for breakfast) were some of the pleasures we enjoyed during this small journey.

As we neared Malshej Ghat, we passed through the solitary tunnel and immediately after it, on our left, saw a strange piece of nature's architecture. Overlooking the vast expanse of the Malshej Valley was a lone rock (shaped like Thumbs-up) jutting out at the edge of a small cliffed plateau. There's a narrow passage at the end of the tunnel which leads to the spot. It's a place from where one can photograph the entire panorama and spend a good 15-20 minutes (or more!) marvelling at the rock and the sights. If you are lucky, you could even get to photograph a Raptor flying at eye level!

Malshej Ghat Panorama from Rock Point

We reached the resort by 11:00AM. MTDC Flamingo Hill Resort is located on a plateau, surrounded by jungles and rolling hills, and it came to us as no surprise as to why it was so popular with travellers - there's no better place to get a good 180 degree view of the valley (save for the rock point I mentioned earlier). However, the place is like any other MTDC property - excellent location, trashy facilities!

At a distance we could see from the hotel drive-in that the waters of Pimpalgaon-Joga dam were beckoning us - it was wonderful to see them glistening in the sun. Since we were before check-in time, we decided to take a stroll on the plateau. There were very few tourists currently and the vast expanse was ours to own. The plateau abruptly ends into a deep gorge with dense jungle at the bottom. The jungle seemed calm from hundreds of feet above, but I am sure it was wild and teeming with activity below! The edge of the plateau is perhaps the best place to spend quality time!

Soon after a sumptuous lunch (the food is ok if you stick to the basic items) we headed straight towards Pimpalgaon-Joga lake. The lake has been created by halting the waters of River Pushpavati by constructing a bund or an earth-fill dam. There's a crude road on top of the dam which leads to Khireshwar village - the base camp for trek to Harishchandragad. Stretched expansively under the blue sky, the waters appear azure as far and wide as the human eye can see and one feels like getting lost in that moment. It's one of those perfect postcard lakes - rolling mountains on either side, a village behind us and the waters disappearing on the horizon - mesmerising! The lake is peppered with rocks which serve as perching point for cormorants, terns, egrets, kingfishers, and other water birds. Every now and then a cormorant would do the sorties and keep us entertained.

We slowly traversed the entire cross-section and finally settled down at a small piece of land that merges into the waters at the end of the dam. Once here, we waited for the evening - the crucial twilight time - when all the colours of nature would be on full display. The simple charms of rustic life were there for us to savour - smoke billowing from the stacks on the horizon, buffaloes bathing in the waters only a few feet away from us! We also met a villager who told us tales of misery of the people of the land. His eyes were intense, but there would be a glint whenever he would mention the prices that some pieces of land were fetching! We spent our time chatting, throwing pebbles in the water and photographing birds, including the Common Kingfisher who would intermittently come and perch on a rock few feet away from us.

Evening is when nature's magic show begins...

Time flew fast... soon evening fell and we were joined in by a large family group at this time. It was an absolute riot of colours. Sky was the canvas and God was the painter - from shades of yellow to golden to blue on nightfall - we couldn't have asked for more! With a very heavy heart we left the place and trundled back to our car. Back at the resort, a bunch of college students were having a campfire at the plateau. Amidst all the cacophony of these revellers, we could hear songs like Munni badnam hui blaring from mobile phones... wonder what the resident Gods must be thinking of them! Meanwhile, the night sky was beautifully lit up by the near full moon and countless stars.

Bee-eater readying to take flight

In the morning we ventured out early onto the plateau, hoping to catch some birds and capture panoramas in the soft morning light. The Long-tailed Shrike, Green Bee-eater, Pied Buschat, Blue Rockthrush, Crested Lark were all there for us - somehow shy this morning! Soon the butterflies also joined in and all around us it seemed like a song & dance party of nature! Good things don't last for long and the check-out time was looming upon us. In the courtyard we saw people playing volleyball and badminton. Finally by 2.00PM we bid Malshej Ghat goodbye but not before enjoying another sumptuous lunch, this time from the restaurant's upper deck from where the whole valley is visible!

All in all it was a day well spent. Perfect blend of some nature-watch activity and relaxation! Truly, Malshej Ghat is the 'Prince of Sahyadris'!

"I thank you God for this most amazing day, for the leaping greenly spirits of trees, and for the blue dream of sky and for everything which is natural, which is infinite, which is yes" - Edward Estlin Cummings

As always, I look forward to your comments / suggestions / feedback. Do write in...

Thank you!

Picture of the day

2010-12-22T19:30:00.006+05:30

Captured from my home..., originally uploaded by thelegendreturns.

Captured this today from my home...

Have posted several pictures in the past of dusk / sunset captured from my home on this blog. I really consider myself lucky to have enjoyed these views for close to 23 years of my life now. However, soon these views would be gone as the panorama is fast filling up with new construction, sigh!

Lets enjoy the sights while we still have them!

Ovalekar Wadi - abode of the butterflies (Part 1)

2010-12-20T22:37:00.001+05:30

Ovalekar Wadi is a quiet little butterfly park (all of 2 acres) located off the Ghodbunder Road in Thane (near Mumbai). Home to about 70-90 different species of butterflies, it's a place about which I learnt only a few months ago! What pleased me the most was that as a resident of Mulund it wouldn't be too much of a bother reaching the place early in the morning.

I set out from my house at 6:30 AM on a November morning armed with my camera kit. No sooner had I stepped out, than it started raining!!! It was only a drizzle, but enough to indicate that for good part of the morning the sky would be overcast and hence the light poor - a photographer's nightmare!

Thankfully it wasn't all that bad either. Yes light was poor and we got to see far fewer butterflies than otherwise, but we had an overall positive impression about the place and resolved to come back again soon.
Intermittently, sunlight would filter in through the cracks in the clouds and we used that opportunity to indulge in some macro photography - flowers, insects, et al.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Ovalekar Wadi, please click here.

The park is a result of the efforts put in by Mr. Rajendra Ovalekar, the owner of the place. He has planted a variety of fruit and flower bearing trees in this patch of land, thereby creating a natural environment where butterflies can thrive without any need for enclosures. He very passionately showed us a butterfly cocoon, caterpillars, and also explained some of the finer aspects of butterflies.

As we were enjoying the sight of butterflies flitting about, flower to flower, we were very lucky to sight a Signature Spider trap a butterfly and entangle it in his web. That was the highlight of the visit. Apart from this we got some nice shots of flowers (with water droplets beautifully sparkling on their petals), mushrooms, a cat that seemed eager to catch a prey, moths, and butterflies such as - Blue Glass Tiger, Striped Tiger, Common Evening Brown, Common Palmfly, Common Crow, etc. - a fraction of the total population over there.

I believe the place is a must visit for butterfly lovers and people generally interested in nature macro photography. Spend a few hours here at leisure and you are sure to go back refreshed. We are fortunate that there are still a few patches of green left in & around Mumbai, thanks to spirited people like Mr. Ovalekar - lets enjoy them while we still have them!

Looking forward to your comments...

How to reach the place: Ovalekar Wadi is located off the Ghodbunder Road in Thane (West) (see map - http://www.wikimapia.org/14420146/Butterfly-Farm). Whether coming from Mulund Check Naka or Thane Station, ask for Parshvanath College of Engineering or Harmony Society in Owale. Just ahead of these landmarks there is a narrow winding lane on the left (be alert as you are sure to miss it), which takes you inside the village. Drive for two minutes on this lane and keep an eye out for a non-descript gate on the right (again you are sure to miss this). A board outside the gate reads Ovalekar Wadi but there's no mention of butterfly park. The entry charges are Rs. 50/- only and the park is open all day.

Kaas Plateau - Maharashtra's Valley of Flowers - a heaven on earth!

2010-10-30T10:56:00.005+05:30

Let a million flowers bloom! - Kaas Plateau

Picture yourself at a place where there are rows and rows of blooming flowers on a flat land, as far as your eyes can see - different colours, different varieties - surrounded by verdant mountains, lakes and valleys. If you think I am asking you to recollect a scene from some Yash Chopra film then you are mistaken. I am alluding to a place which is only 6-7 hours drive South of Mumbai and about 2-3 hours from Pune.

Kaas Plateau, nestled in the Sahyadris (Western Ghats) in the District of Satara (of Mahabaleshwar fame), is also known as Maharashtra's Plateau of Flowers or the Valley of Flowers (being surrounded by valleys on two sides). As the monsoon sets in, the place comes alive with millions of wild flowers blooming on the plateau and along the slopes of the hills (all naturally occurring). The carpet changes colour every passing day and hour - white, yellow, pink, violet, blue. Add to this the changing hues of the sky, it being rainy season, and you have a magical place - a place fit for the Gods!

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Kaas Plateau, please click HERE.

Gathering Storm

Kaas Plateau - Bed of flowers - countless Smithia Hirsuta flowers

Malabar Crested Lark

The best time to enjoy this nature's bounty is August - October, of which September is perhaps the best. Apart from the flowers, keep an eye on the fauna as well - birds such as the Malabar Crested Lark, Bonneli's Eagle, Indian Robin, Crested Bunting, etc; reptiles - we saw a man holding Vine Snake on our way to the plateau; and myriad insects.

According to Dr. Sandeep Shrotri, there are over 1,500 types of plants in Kaas - 156 botanical families, 680 genera, 1452 species, 400 medicinal plants, and about 33 endangered varieties in Kaas and the neighbouring Koyna area. Many of these are believed to be not found elsewhere. It thus becomes imperative to protect this place. As such the Western Ghats are a biodiversity hotspot (amongst the two in India, out of a total of 34 world over). Days after we visited the place, a team from UNESCO visited the site in order to assess it for declaring it a World Heritage Site. Achieving this milestone would go a long way in creating awareness about conserving the place.

Some of the commonly found flowers at Kaas, and which are pictured here & in slideshow are - Smithia Hirsute (Mickey Mouse flower), Senecio Grahami, Utricularia Purpurascens, Dipcadi Montanum, Impatiens Oppositifolia, Indigofera Dalzelli, Cyanotis Cristata, Ipomoea Nil, Celosia Argentea, Drosero India, etc. (unable to label them below since it distorts alignment)

Endless line of vehicles on an overcast day!

Today, this once quaint idyllic place is under threat (it is not a declared protected area!) as lakhs of tourists visit this place. While tourism helps create awareness, it is also a double edged sword. Many tourists blissfully pluck flowers, uproot plants, litter the place and trample upon the flowers & insects - not knowing which endangered species they might be causing harm to. Many also indulge in revelry and treat it as a picnic spot.

When we reached the spot on the first day, there were hundreds of vehicles lined-up on either side of the road along the Kaas Plateau - while the next day (being Sunday) there was absolutely no place to park for miles - the cops had decided to halt vehicles headed for Kaas well in advance in order to avoid a traffic nightmare. I have to say that the cops stationed at the place are doing an admirable job of guiding the tourists and preventing any foul play - but just like entries to a national park are restricted, to conserve the place it is necessary to quickly come up with some mechanism to manage the flow of tourists.

With the place gaining in popularity over the last few years, things have only gotten worse. What's more, the place is also rich in minerals and one can only dread what could be the fate of the place if it is not declared a protected area!

Soak it in!

We had been to Kaas during the 2nd - 3rd October, 2010 weekend as part of the BNHS programme. Going along with knowledgeable people helps one understand the place better. Though the trip was towards the fag end of the blooming season we got to see enough diversity to be more than impressed with the beauty of the place. It is literally a cornucopia of flowers as you would also realise from the pictures.

Even the drive from Satara City to Kaas Plateau (about 20-22 Kms) is very scenic. One can see the Kanher Dam and Urmodi Dam on either side of the drive respectively - separated from the road by scenic valleys. There are number of farms dotting the place where one can see people going about their simple yet strenuous routines. After visiting Kaas, one can spend a good hour or two photographing the panoramic landscape, birds and other flora around here. Then there is also the Kaas Lake which is a must visit - its azure waters surrounded by forests,and the cool wind blowing on your face provide a nice tranquil and refreshing feeling. Apart from this, I have been told, there are a number of historical temples and gushing waterfalls nearby.

En-route Kaas

Kaas Lake

Kanher Dam panorama (stitched)

Most importantly do not miss the evening at Kaas Plateau - the sunset and the changing hues of the sky are absolutely surreal and have an out of the world feeling about it.

Kaas @ Sunset time!

We ended our trip on Sunday afternoon by enjoying sumptuous Maharashtrian food at a place providing homestay options - located between Satara City and Kaas. These people were very passionate about nature and had planted a number of flowering plants in their courtyard. The flowers you will see towards the end of the slideshow are the ones cultivated by these folks and are not to be mistaken for the wild flowers of Kaas Plateau.

Travel tip... To reach Satara, one can either drive down from Mumbai or hop onto the many buses that ply regularly between the two cities. There are plenty of stay options in Satara. Kaas Plateau is located about 20-22 Kms from the city on the road that leads to Bamnoli village.
Do not forget to carry a sunscreen lotion and an insect repellent cream (if you are comfortable applying it). Being rainy season, carry adequate protection for your photography gear. Importantly buy Dr. Sandeep Shrotri's book 'Kaas - Plateau of Flowers' - it has a wealth of information on the place, flora and fauna and in it he also makes a passionate plea to protect the place. A two day weekend, I believe, is good enough to explore the place - you may want to go more than once to check out different carpets.

Satara City - through the valley - panorama

Thank you! Do write in with comments / questions.

Conserve nature! Protect our future!

10 Amazing Photos of India - a photo-essay featured on Go! Overseas

2010-10-19T17:41:00.001+05:30

God's Own Country, Kerala

Go! Overseas have this week published on their website a photo-essay contributed by me. The objective of this photo-essay, titled '10 Amazing Photos of India', is to market India as a destination where the international community can explore opportunities to teach, study and volunteer. The pictures are a preview to what they can expect in India in terms of the beauty and the culture of the place.

The post has been compiled based on the pictures taken by me during the many journeys I have undertaken to discover the magnificent diversity of India and hence (constrained by my travels) may not be truly representative of all that India has to offer.

In the words of Go! Overseas - "From the towering Himalayas, to white-sandy beaches, India clearly is blessed with an amazing abundance of natural and cultural diversity"

To read the post click here
To know more about Go! Overseas, click here

I hope you enjoy the post. As always I look forward to your feedback. A special thanks to Andrew Dunkle of Go! Overseas for providing me the opportunity to showcase India.

Window shooting (Part 1) and photography tips for shooting sunsets & moons

2010-09-28T22:18:00.003+05:30

"I enjoy travelling and recording far-away places and people with my camera. But I also find it wonderfully rewarding to see what I can discover outside my own window. You only need to study the scene with the eyes of a photographer."

- Alfred Eisenstaed

A Bat flies across the setting sun in Mulund

Sunset over Mulund hills

In the page 'About My Bioscope', the blog description ends with the above quote and it is only fitting that I reproduce it over here - because today's post depicts some of the pictures I have captured from the cosy confines of my house by merely peeping out of the window and having the camera at hand (and also in part because nobody would have read the blog description!).

Photography is a subject which can be practiced literally anywhere, even in your bathroom (more about it some other day) and that is why I love it (not to be mistaken for spending time in the bathroom). As I have said in some of my earlier posts also, photography is all about perspective and a brilliant composition is just waiting to be captured right close to from where you are reading this.

It is not always possible to travel - due to time constraints, budget constraints and of course sheer laziness! In order to keep the creative juices flowing one is hence compelled to look around for subjects. And how very rewarding it can be, gee!

Birds heading home

People who have been following my blog (and I know there aren't many) would have seen in the previous posts the various colours and aspects of the sky that I have captured (see these posts here - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) from my home. This post takes the series forward by depicting some more enchanting skies. Additionally there is the picture of the bird, Oriental Magpie Robin, that I spotted this Saturday perched on a cable few feet away from my window (previous similar home shots - 1, 2). Apart from these, there is an entire world waiting to be captured from one's window - street life - which we will see in another post.

Sunset over Mulund hills

The hills that you see in these pictures are part of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park. There was a time when I could get a sweeping panoramic view of these hills. But the real estate boom of the past few years has slowly blocked most of this view and it won't be long before I won't be able to see the sunset from my window and on that day this series would also come to an end, sigh!

Oriental Magpie Robin (OMR)

This bird was whistling its melodious tune and I knew the moment I heard the sound that it was the OMR (they are quite regular around my house) and I dashed to the window with my camera - in the process startling my father, who was enjoying his morning breakfast beside the window!

I am giving some photography tips below (free! free! free!) based on what works for me (disclaimer)!

Birds heading home

Photography tip for shooting stunning sunsets: For that ideal sunset picture it is important to ensure that you get the exposure right else the picture may turnout either too dark or washed out. Also the subject that you want to show as silhouette (hill, bat, buildings, birds and transmission towers in the these pictures) may not turn out as intended. For people using point and shoot cameras, use the in-built 'sunset' option. More often than not it works. For people with SLR and prosumers, set the camera to 'aperture priority' mode (aperture value of 8.0), meter the camera from the sun and stop down the EV by 1/3 - 2/3 - this will ensure that the camera compensates for the sun's brightness, adds warmth and produces the silhouette effect (should you need to quickly switch to 'manual mode', in case the sun becomes dull at the time of sunset, preset it to a shutter speed of 1/160 - 1/200). Lock the exposure and now compose your frame, click! Depending upon the scene, you could also use evaluative metering, but ensure that you stop down the EV.

While some of these aspects can also be controlled during post-processing, I believe in the Japanese management concept of 'Do it right the first time'. Most important thing is to take test shots before the actual moment - lest you miss out on a great shot because the settings were not right! And of course practice a lot!

In case you do not want the silhouette effect, such as in the pictures below, then meter from an area next to the sun (which will be less intense) else use evaluative metering. Rest of the procedure remains the same.

Mulund

Sun about to set over Mulund

For some more of my sunset and evening shots, click here.

The crescent moon

Photography tip for those beautiful moon shots: For people who want to photograph the moon, remember that the moon is bright and can also have a halo around it. In order to compensate for this, meter your camera from the moon using spot metering and stop down the EV by 2/3. Use the 'manual mode' and set the aperture value to 8. The precise shutter speed to use would depend upon the phase of the moon you are trying to shoot as well as its position in the sky (closer to the horizon they are a lot bigger but may not be as bright). For the above shot I have used a shutter speed of 1/15 (crescent moons are not as bright as full moons and require longer exposure), while for capturing Maghi Poornima I have used a shutter speed of 1/640 - in other words do some test shots - using 'aperture priority' mode would also work just as fine on most occasions (saving the headache of deciding the right shutter speed). These settings will ensure that your picture has the right exposure and captures the moon accurately, with craters, spots, et al!

In terms terms of gear, you need to have a camera with "atleast" 12-15X zoom or a 200-300mm lens to produce a picture of any meaningful size. Also use a lens hood in case there are external light sources nearby to prevent flares. If you do not have a steady hand, rest your elbow on a firm object else use a tripod (and if you don't have a tripod then boost the ISO and correspondingly increase the shutter speed, but this will make the picture grainy - for point & shoots use the 'auto-ISO' option). Of course practice and try out various settings depending upon the scene. Pictures of the moon come in handy for merging with other pictures - say for example when you want to show a moon shining above a monument!

In case you have any queries regarding the techniques, please feel free to contact me.

Shades of melancholy in black & white...

2010-09-22T21:43:00.005+05:30

In my "humble" opinion Black & White (B&W) photography is perhaps one of the purest forms of photography. B&W stands on its own feet - on the strength of composition and mood, without the glamour (so to speak) of colour. I have also generally found that street photography is more appealing when seen in B&W - maybe it's because B&W brings out the starkness and hence help convey the mood better. To paraphrase it in a literary fashion - street-photography has the onerous task of capturing the shades of grey in our society and what better than using the shades of grey to portray them! It could also be because the works of Henri Cartier-Bresson (which were in B&W), the legendary photographer and father of street photography, continue to inspire photographers to this day, resulting in an immense amount of B&W work being done despite the colour capabilities of today's cameras.

Initially I had planned to share these pictures as part of another larger theme-based post, but then I had a feeling that they would get lost somewhere in the array of pictures (like so many of my other portraitures). Hence, this small post depicting some of the shades of melancholy which I observed recently.

A trumpet player in a Western-styled band

Wonder why the faces of most trumpet players appear melancholic and hardened to me? This man was otherwise quite jolly and would wink at me after finishing his bit!

A charioteer appears lost in thought

A relic of the past, horse carriages that were once common-place in Mumbai (they went by the moniker 'Victoria') are today few and far between. The struggle of having to run a carriage in the face of mounting costs, decreasing number of customers, traffic woes and animal rights groups breathing down their neck sure takes a toll on these guys.

Hardened by age, toughened by life!

A worker takes a breather during a dull moment in a festive procession. What intrigues me always is the impact the people, who come dressed in finery and gold ornaments for the festive / wedding processions, may be having on the minds of poor onlookers and members of a troop (such as this person)!

Another charioteer lost in thought

Perhaps the same goes for this charioteer as well.

Some great B&W pictures -
To see Henri Cartier-Bresson's work, click here.
Also have a look at the 10 photographs that changed the world.

P.S. - this time I have linked the pictures to the Flickr lightbox. In case you have encountered problems with it or find it troublesome to navigate then do let me know.

Musical Bands of Mumbai 1 – the Dhol-tasha band

2010-09-16T22:01:00.002+05:30

Young boy playing cymbals

The arrival of the month of August heralds a long period of celebration for the majority of Indians. Starting with the Parsi New Year and ending with Christmas, it encompasses diverse festivals like Onam, Janamashthami, Ganesh Chaturthi, Paryushana, Eid, Navratri, Dussehra, and Diwali. It is the season of revelry, food (read sweets), music, penance, et al. In this and subsequent posts, I am sharing with you the images of people who get us swinging to their distinctly folksy beats during these festivals - the musical bands. Our first band is Maharashtra's famed Dhol-Tasha band.

If during a festival in Maharashtra you have heard the drums roll, clatter and create a deep resounding sound, then in all probability you have heard the dhol-tasha band play. As the name suggests, the band members play an assortment of drums (large and small) along with hand cymbals to create various taal (rhythm) synchronisations. The group members (more than 10 in number) are both young and old and sometimes also include children. Of late even women have started joining these bands (that should impress the women's rights groups)! During the Ganesh Chaturthi festival one gets to see the best of these groups. They typically rehearse for months and develop new taals to be in the reckoning of the large Ganesh mandals who hire them for the processions.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of the Dhol-Tasha Band, please click H ERE.

The mandali

There's an amazing amount of energy that they bring to this art form which is not seen in other traditional bands. During the processions they would halt a while and dance as they play music, raising the crescendo and pitch with every passing moment. The drums beating in unison and the clanging of cymbals have an earthy feel to it. It is also highly infectious. If you happen to be standing anywhere nearby, your feet would begin stamping without you even realising!

Electrifying to the core...

These people are quite jovial and give cheerful expressions upon spotting a camera.

In the next post I will share with you images of the great Indian Brass band (brought back into the limelight by Amit Trivedi in Dev D.) and also a Western version of it.

Till then...its goodbye!

Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Shilonda trail - A walk in the woods!

2010-08-22T16:16:00.003+05:30

Mumbai, aptly called Maximum City by Suketu Mehta in his book by the same name, is a city of contrasts. One such element is the presence of a National Park in the midst of what is India's busiest metropolis. Which other metropolis in the world can boast of such a privilege? To most Mumbaikars (especially of the types born and brought up in the city like me), the 104 sq. Km Sanjay Gandhi National Park (SGNP) brings back memories of an unspoilt childhood when our parents would take us to the park on a lazy Sunday for a jungle safari or an excursion to the famed Kanheri Caves (they are 2400 years old!) and of course those lovely school picnics. Alas, as we have grown up, and through the boom years, places such as these have only remained confined to memories for most people.

A visit to the National Park on a rainy Sunday morning, as part of the BNHS Nature Walk, was to me as much about jogging the memory back as about exploring the lesser known areas of the park. Coming after a successful visit to the Maharashtra Nature Park, I was craving for more...

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of Sanjay Gandhi National Park, please click HERE.

Every morning hundreds of people throng to the park for their ritual of exercises - walking, jogging, doing yoga, etc. Being a Sunday, many had also come with their kids for nature watch and safaris. Seeing the crowd outside the gate and the swarm of cars (yes people come in cars to walk! maybe they come from far away places) reminded me of the daily scenes outside the gates of SEEPZ in Andheri! But once inside, it was a completely different world!

The areas of Sanjay Gandhi National Park that are open to public are but only a fraction of the park's total area. Vast portions of the park are restricted and can only be accessed with the permission of the Forest Department. It is in these areas that the park has tucked away the best of its treasures. The Shilonda Trail (also spelled Silonda) is one such area. Nature walks conducted by organisations such as BNHS are the best way to go on these trails without having to undergo the hassle of interacting with forest officials, especially if you are going alone like me.

The entrance to the Shilonda trail begins from about 1 Km inside the park (starting from the Borivali Gate). The muddy unpaved trail extends Eastward from its entry point towards the main North-South ridge that rises towards Kanheri Hill (the highest point above sea-level in Mumbai). It is a trail lined with bamboo groves, scrub and tall forests, termite mounds, Pongam oil tree, and also has a small forest river cutting across it. During monsoons, the river is wild and the forest dense & green. It makes for excellent nature watch - plants, butterflies, bugs, spiders, birds, flowers, wild fruits, monkeys (Rhesus Macaques - how can one forget them) and other varieties of insects. Its sylvan and verdant design, teeming with numerous habitants, makes Shilonda an ideal place for nature and macro photography. The hoots of Greater Coucal provide an excellent departure from the cacophonous sounds of mobile phones.

The forest river, which bulges in the monsoon, is a place to spend a nice 1 hour or more. Observe grown ups turn into kids, photograph some candid moments and indulge in your own revelry as well! It is indeed impossible to believe that one is still within the limits of Greater Mumbai!

Flower that saved us!

If you are lucky enough you may even sight a mammal or two, may be more. It is not uncommon to come across a leopard's pug marks, especially near the artificial waterhole located half way into the trail. While we didn't sight any signs of a carnivore, we got to witness something truly remarkable from the herbivores of the park. While on my way back, along with a fellow BNHS traveller, I stopped for a moment to click pictures of a flower. No sooner had I bent down than five Spotted Deers (Chitals) emerged out of the thick bushes, four metres ahead on our right, at breakneck speed, landing with a loud thud on the forest track and jumping instantaneously into the bushes on our left. It all happened in a flash of a second. They were probably alarmed by the presence of some carnivore and were hence bolting. We also wondered what would have been our fate had we not stopped for the photograph - those deers would have landed on us! That said, the sight was like an icing on the cake and made our day!

We had begun the trail at about 8.00 AM (starting at 7:30 AM from the main gate) and it was now 11.00 AM when we emerged out of the Shilonda trail and were back on the main concrete road of the National Park. Now the place was lined with local villagers (yes there are a few villages located inside the park) selling roasted corn, sliced cucumber & tomatoes and fruits to the health conscious people who come for their daily dose of exercise. These scenes also provide excellent opportunities for street photography (also see my previous post).

By 11:30 AM I was at the gates, staring at the traffic and ready to head back home after a Sunday morning well spent - completely refreshed and recharged to take on the turbulent financial markets from Monday onwards! All this without stepping a foot outside Mumbai!

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks - John Muir

About Sanjay Gandhi National Park: SGNP, also called Borivali National Park, is a protected area located in North Mumbai. Its main entrance is located on the Western Express Highway in the suburb of Borivali. The place is very easily accessible from any corner of Mumbai by trains, buses and cabs. The entry fee (without a car and for non-commercial photographers) is a mere Rs. 20/- (less than half a dollar!). The park touches most of the Northern suburbs of Mumbai including Mulund, the place where I reside. I have grown up watching the hills (very clearly visible from the windows of my house) that form part of the park. As a teenager I have also gone trekking in those hills (we would begin our ascent from a hillock behind Veena Nagar, which has now been razed to make way for a residential tower!!!). From the top of the hill (it is the tallest of all the suburbs) one can catch a sweeping view of the North-Eastern suburbs as well as the Tulsi Lake which is located just behind the hill.

A highly recommended place for nature lovers!

Say cheese! It's the World Photography Day!

2010-08-19T20:13:00.006+05:30

Today, across national boundaries, most photography lovers like me are celebrating the World Photography Day. Photography is a hobby which gives me immense joy and helps me discover this world in ways different from a casual observer. The thrill of having visualised something (a story or a moment) and being able to capture it "forever" is something indescribable. Photography has now been around for over 150 years and yet, as a medium of communication, it still remains the most powerful. This is owing to its ability to convey reality as well as the mood in a manner that directly appeals to the sensibility of the viewer.

On this day, I am sharing with you one of my favourite clicks - a picture that I took recently on a rainy Sunday morning while out on a nature walk inside the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Mumbai. While I was strolling inside the park and enjoying the greenery, I came across a house where a boy, seated outside on the rocks, was quietly observing a heated conversation between two people. As I observed closely, I saw that his face was melancholic (probably saddened by the commotion), he was poorly dressed and was looking in a direction away from the bicycle leaning against the house. That's when I took this picture...

Whither Childhood! - one of my favourite clicks!

Later when I saw the picture on the camera's LCD, it seemed to convey a totally different story (or as any third person who was not present at that moment would wonder) - one of a boy perhaps reflecting upon his lost childhood! The boy would have been out cycling or playing with other kids on any other Sunday morning, but something was holding him back today, something had saddened him. Was it the end of his childhood? Would he soon have to head out in search of work to meet household expenses? Is he going to miss his school in order to work? Or was it that his house was going to be relocated outside the national park and he would miss the surroundings where he spent the best days of his childhood? Or was it just that he was waiting for the sun to come out so that he could play? Or was he just unwell that day and hence appeared weak and sad?

Pictures such as these have the power to create a well of emotions inside us...words will never be able to achieve that!

Wishing you all a happy World Photography Day! May our tribe increase! Happy clicking :)

Maharashtra Nature Park, Mumbai: Butterfly diaries and more…

2010-07-25T22:27:00.163+05:30

Maharashtra Nature Park, also called the Mahim Nature Park (MNP), is a 15 hectare (37 acres) patch of green in Mumbai, which comes as a shock (albeit a pleasant one) to anybody who visits it, especially during the monsoons. One of the reasons for the surprise is, apart from the fact that it is situated in Mumbai - a concrete jungle with sky high land prices, its location “within” Mumbai! How does this sound for a place that resembles a mini forest? – located on the Southern bank of the dirty Mithi River and squeezed between Asia's largest slum Dharavi and Mumbai's most sought after business location, the Bandra Kurla Complex!

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of Maharashtra Nature Park, please click HERE.

Maharashtra Nature Park has been developed over the years through the painstaking efforts of Mumbai Metropolitan Region Development Authority (MMRDA – they do some good work as well, eh?) and World Wildlife Fund (WWF India). Starting in 1982-83 on what was then the site of a garbage dump and land fill, the piece of land has been today transformed in to a verdant and thriving mini forest which plays home to about 63 species of birds, 40 varieties of butterflies, snakes, other insects and over 13,500 trees of various species including herbs, shrubs, grasses, etc.

Alongside Sanjay Gandhi National Park (SGNP) and Aarey Milk Colony, this oasis, MNP, serves as an excellent recreational destination for nature lovers and photographers while at the same time performing the important role of breathing oxygen into the polluted airs of Mumbai. It is also used by various nature conservation organisations and schools to create awareness about the environment. The park also boasts of an audio-visual hall, exhibition hall, open air amphitheatre, nursery, library, etc. – all powered using solar electricity.

MNP especially comes alive during the Monsoons, when the place acquires a thick coat of green and presents a mind-boggling array of opportunities for macro and other forms of photography such as -

Butterflies...

Dragonflies...

Leaves...

Drops of pearl sliding down the leaves and flower petals...

Rocks...

Wild growth...

And the list is endless…

The butterflies flitting from one flower to another keeps one entertained for hours – it is an absolute riot of colours out there...

With no crowds around and only the chirping of the birds to keep your ears engaged, it is a great place to escape the din and bustle of the metropolis and spend a quiet day. It’s a place that is sure to charm you. It also comes cheap, considering the inflationary times we live in! The entry fee is a mere Rs. 5/- per person!!! The park’s visiting hours are 9:30 AM – 5.00 PM and there are trails demarcated inside to guide wanderers like us. The entry gate is located opposite Dharavi Bus Depot and is also easily approachable from Sion Railway Station.

Lahaul - Spiti Valley Jeep Safari: Notes & anecdotes from a 7 day odyssey through the middle land!

2010-07-14T20:39:00.040+05:30

Connoisseur’s delight…door to freedom...

If you are not averse to any of these -

living at an average altitude of 4,250 metres in a cold desert;
travelling on narrow (single lane), gravel and water filled roads winding through the Himalayas, which stare thousands of feet down into a violent river, and where road blocks due to landslides and snowfalls are as common as the day and night;
living without newspaper and telecommunication network (save for BSNL) in a place unscathed by modernity;

then Spiti is the place for you - the connoisseur traveller, the solitude seeker, the adventurer!

Spiti Valley came on my radar a couple of years back while researching some exotic driving holidays in the Himalayas. I was instantly taken in. Ladakh had been on my travel list for over seven years (since the time the populace had not even heard about it), but seeing the swarm of casual tourists thronging to it since the release of 3 Idiots, I decided that it had to be Spiti that I must visit this time around, before the hotels over there too started dishing out thalis!

Spiti, which means ‘the middle country’, is the land of ragged and snow capped mountains that reach out to the clear deep blue skies. Here, in the cold desert, trees are scarce and the moonscape expansive. Spiti is the land of several perennial rivers - Spiti, Pin, Chandra - whose gurgling sounds will soothe you in the night and whose ferocity will awe you when you travel alongside them in the day time. Ah, and not to mention the placid, azure blue lakes like Chandra Taal, Nako, Dhankar. The observer would also be struck by some of the most beautiful canyons and the most unusual clay and rock formations along the river bed and in the mountains. The continuity of the landscape is only broken by numerous waterfalls and glaciers, including one of world's largest non-polar glaciers - Bara Shigri.

For the spiritual seeker, Spiti is home to some thousand year old Gompas (Buddhist Monasteries) and Tibetan art. There is also the mummy of a monk who meditated to death. It's a place which continuously resonates with the chants of Tibetan Buddhism (principal religion) and keeps you in a trance like state. The place also boasts of the world's highest motorable and inhabited villages. A place where lucky few can still find fossils in the valleys or manage to sight Snow Leopards, Ibex, Red Fox, etc. Finally, it is the beautiful people of Spiti who lend the valley its divine soul. These people, despite the harsh environment and poor living standards, are jovial and courteous. They live in match-box styled white coloured houses with lungtas fluttering from their rooftops and speak Bhoti and Hindi languages.

I discovered all of this and more during my seven day Trans Himalayan safari. Join me below on this journey through the middle land that is sure to leave an imprint on your mind and impel you too to embark on one…

About the place…

Located along the Indo-Tibetan border, the district of Lahaul & Spiti is the largest in the North Indian State of Himachal Pradesh. It has been a forbidden land for most part of its history. The land route from Manali is barely open for three-four months a year, while the route from the Capital city of Shimla (which is open year round) takes two days to reach Spiti Valley. For most part of the year the region is covered in snow. Temperatures in winter drop to as low as minus 30 - 35 degrees Celsius and rains are minimal. Consequently, the region is very sparsely populated; with some villages having only a handful of "souls" (that’s what the Government boards read over there. Population: 50 souls)! Unlike Ladakh, it has no airport and suffers from little documented history. It is precisely these factors that lend the place its mysticism and make the joy of discovering its unrivalled beauty indescribable.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of Landscape & Monasteries, please click HERE.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of People & Culture, please click HERE.

The Trans Himalayan odyssey begins…

Our safari was originally slated to start from Manali through the famed Rohtang Pass that serves as a gateway to the Lahaul & Spiti district. However, as luck would have it, owing to snowing in early June, both the Rohtang Pass and Kunzum La had been closed for vehicles. The day we reached Delhi (we were expecting the route to open in a day or two) we received news that some hapless people, who had been stranded in Spiti for 10 days, had to be airlifted, gulp! After some quick deliberations with Vishesh Shourie of ‘Incredible Spiti’ (an organisation that specialises in providing adventure solutions for Spiti - more about them later) we decided to change the itinerary. We would now enter Spiti via Kinnaur district by starting from Shimla and driving for two full days along the meandering Sutlej River to reach Tabo and finally exit through Manali. The two mountain passes would have “hopefully” opened by the time we were ready bid Spiti goodbye! While this upset the economics, the good part was that we would now get to see both ends of the valley.

I begin below from the time we were introduced to our driver cum guide Dharamveer.

Day 1, Shimla – Narkanda – Reckong Peo - Kalpa: With barely four hours of sleep behind us in the beautiful city of Shimla (whose Wodehousian charm instantly transports one back to the days of the Raj), we were ready to embark on our journey. The Manager of the Royale Oaks Hotel (Lakkar bazaar) introduced us to our driver cum guide Dharamveer, a man of Nepali descent and medium built. The fact that he was also a Buddhist would prove to be invaluable on this trip.

The day was beautiful, skies clear, and a gentle breeze was wafting through the air carrying with it the sweet scent of pine trees. We purchased plenty of plums and other fruits from a roadside vendor (selling a cornucopia of fruits from local orchards) on the highway. They were dirt-cheap (compared to Mumbai), sweet and enough to last us for the next seven days. As we were driving along roads lined with apple orchards and soaking in the verdant pine filled vistas, the weather decided to get ominous. Dark clouds were hovering above us and threatening with their roar. The moment we got off the vehicle, to have lunch at a restaurant in Narkanda, the clouds screamed “bakra” (scapegoat) and opened their bellies upon us. Wind got chilly and gusty, light had faded and I started to worry about photography as Dharamveer promised stunning views ahead. He also told us that this would probably be the last place where we would get good Punjabi food. We ate to our heart’s fill and moved ahead.

We were now driving on the old Hindustan – Tibet road, traversing deep canyons, ridges, and some startling rock formations with the Sutlej River flowing in all its ferocious grandeur thousands of feet below. The landscape was barren. I have been to mountains before. But never before had I felt so vulnerable. The roads (NH 22) were extremely narrow and to call them roads would be a misnomer. They were merely paths or tracks for the most part. Roadblocks are as common here as day and night.

Being summer time, we were treated to some gushing waterfalls in the Kinnaur district created by the melting snow and as the sun set, we passed the famed Nathpa – Jhakri hydel project, the Kharcham – Wangtoo hydel project and finally the Baspa hydel project (phew!) to enter Reckong Peo, the administrative headquarters of Kinnaur district. Located about 10 Kms from Reckong Peo is the quaint town of Kalpa (approx. 250 Kms from Shimla) where most motorists retire for the night. Hotel Apple Pie in Kalpa has some well appointed rooms that, the manager promised us, also offered the best views of the majestic Kinner Kailash (also called Kinnaur Kailash; 6,350 metres) mountain peak. The peak is revered equally by Buddhists and Hindus of the land.

Day 2, Kalpa – Nako – Khab - Tabo: The best time, they say, for landscape photography is sunrise (and sunset) as the soft and gradually changing light weaves its magic upon the sky-scape. Unfortunately the sun rises at 5:15 AM in these parts! Waking up on the dot on a cold summer morning, I set aside the thick blanket and drew the curtains. What I saw left me awestruck. The Kinner Kailash was there right before me (well almost). The sun was rising from behind the mountains, giving their rims a nice golden glow. As the town was waking up, women went about their chores and we enjoyed our morning cuppa with eyes transfixed on the mountain peak. It seemed as if God had ordained timelessness upon this town.

With no dark clouds around, the shutter release button was busy for most part of the journey. Even before it was noon we had encountered two road blocks thanks to some road widening work being undertaken by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO). In stretches where the BRO is active, the roads are excellent. Around noon we reached a place called Khab which marks the confluence of Spiti River and Sutlej River. The view was simply breathtaking. The point of confluence almost looked like the moment when two Sumo wrestlers collide! At this spot the road curves in to a steel bridge, built over the point of confluence, and leads onto a road built through a small semi-circular cut in the mountain (see picture). This is a spot worth spending a few minutes at to marvel at nature’s beauty and man’s zeal for conquest.

From here onwards we gradually began to notice the changes in terrain. Rocky mountains gave way to brown and grey sloping mountains. The valleys were wider (enabling human settlement) and skies far more bluer. There was not a hint of green around, save for a few scattered farms cultivated by some enterprising people. Tufts of white clouds were strewn hither thither like pieces of cotton.

Around 1.00 PM our vehicle turned into Nako village, a hamlet known more for its lake. We had lunch at Lovon Hotel (by no means shady) and then sauntered toward the lake. I was momentarily dumbstruck by the serenity of the place. Not a leaf seemed to move. The clear reflection one could see in it of the surrounding environment told me how much the residents of this place cared about keeping the environment clean.

Grudgingly we returned to our cars to resume our journey onward to Tabo. Beyond Nako lies the village of Sumdo, which formally announces your arrival in to Spiti Valley. On the way, Dharamveer pointed towards Kaurik peak from where a motorable road (now used largely by defence personnel) leads up to Indo-Tibet border and which used to serve as an important trade route in ancient times. Around 4.00 PM we reached Tabo (3,250 metres), which seemed like an oasis in this other wise arid land. With a population of 150 odd souls, Tabo is a quiet village that owes its popularity to the venerable Tabo Chos – khor monastery, which was founded in the year 996 AD! Driving past the monastery, we turned rightward on the helipad (which was built many years ago to receive His Holiness 14^th Dalai Lama for the inauguration of the new monastery) and reached Tashi Khangsar Hotel, our abode in Tabo. The hotel was sandwiched between the monastery and a rocky mountain. Needless to say it afforded good views.

Since the day was still good, we decided to tour the Tabo monastery after relaxing for a few minutes. The new monastery was closed in the evening so we spent most of our time exploring the old one. As we entered we saw a few young monks playing near the guest house and waving out to us. The vintage of the monastery becomes quite evident from its charming structures which are built from sand and mud. Set against blue skies and brown mountains, the precincts of the monastery have a uniquely magical feel. The inside of the monastery is a virtual treasure trove of millennium old murals, Thangka paintings, scriptures and sculptures. After marvelling at the work of art I realised why the Chos – khor monastery is also referred to as the ‘Ajanta of the Himalayas’. Unfortunately, photography is strictly prohibited inside the old monastery.

There is a German Bakery nearby which serves an assortment of pastries, cookies, breads and other delectable items. We decided to give it a miss and instead treated ourselves to vegetable Momos and Sea buckthorn tea at the hotel. Wah! For dinner we had Tibetan bread and butter.

Day 3, Tabo – Dhankar – Lahlung - Kaza: In the morning we first visited the new monastery. Dharamveer requested a senior monk to show us around and he willingly obliged. Grander than the old monastery, the place was a picture of calm. As we stood in silence, the monk gave us interesting pieces of information on the Buddhist religion, the works of art inside and of course The Dalai Lama – the single most revered person in the region. From here we proceeded toward the nearby caves (phukpas) for which we had to hike a bit from the main road. The rarefied air in Spiti Valley makes one breathless at the slightest of exertion. These caves are used by monks for meditation and one of them also has an elaborate mural inside. From here one gets a bird’s eye view of Tabo village and the surrounding scenery.

Today’s first major destination was Dhankar (also spelled Dhangkar / Dangkhar; 3,900 metres). The Dhankar monastery, a near 1,000 year old symbol of Vajrayana Buddhist architecture, is one of the 100 most endangered monuments in the world (as recognised by the World Monuments Fund)! It is constructed on a 300 metre high ledge in a rocky mountain near the confluence of Pin and Spiti rivers. An architectural marvel of its time, today owing to its age and an earthquake that struck the region in 1975, it is in the imminent danger of collapsing. There is also a dilapidated fort (there are some wonderful murals inside its rooms), that once enveloped the entire complex, the remnants of which can be explored by hiking. As a matter of fact, it is this fort which lends the place its name. Dhankar literally means – fort on a cliff! Dhankar incidentally also has a lake, but for which one needs to hike for about an hour or two.

The entire complex, and the mountain on which it stands, has an almost fairy tale like beauty when viewed from a distance. From the monastery one can see some crazy natural rock / sand formations on the left, the Dhankar village scattered in the centre, and vast expanses of the valley on the right where the clean blue waters of Pin River merge into the muddy brown waters of Spiti River. The colourful Lungtas (prayer flags), strung from the poles, and swaying in the foreground add an air of spirituality to what is one of nature’s finest pieces of work.

At some distance away, on the opposite mountain, is the new Dhankar Monastery. Behind this new structure is a guest house where one can get a wide variety of food to eat. We decided to have our lunch here. Being in a Tibetan frame of mind we ordered Thukpa and fried rice for lunch. The gallery of the guest house is like a viewing deck overlooking the valley and a photographer’s paradise. I took several wide angle shots of the monastery and snow clad mountain peaks while waiting for the lunch to be served.

Motoring along the main road we took a diversion from Lingti village on a gravel road that supposedly would take us to Lahlung (also spelled Lalung / Lhalung). This journey, beside the Lingti valley, provides you with sights of some of the finest canyons and rock formations in India (some of which, atop the mountain, appear like the ramparts of a fort!). Half and hour into the drive we realised we were on the wrong path as we had reached a point beyond which it was impossible to drive. We turned back and returned to Lingti where some enquiries threw up an alternate road which finally did manage to take us to Lahlung.

The Lahlung monastery, also about a millennium old, is fondly called the Golden Temple (Serkhang) since it has statues (supposedly 1,200 years old!) which are plated in gold. A senior monk showed us around the place and gave us details on the history, murals, artefacts, sculptures and other symbolisms. Photography is permitted inside the monastery as long as you don’t fire your flash gun.

Outside the monastery, as we began chatting with the monk and some rural folks (mostly giggling women), we realised that they couldn’t even place Mumbai and Kolkata on the map of India! Few had even heard of these places! Yet they were simple, charming and alluring people, gracious enough to invite us to join their tea party. Most of them work on the National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (NREGA) projects and knit sweaters during their free time. The old monk (no pun intended) treated us to fine lemon tea and ladoos. The lemon tea was far better than what one gets in an upmarket urban joint. It is also here that I met the dancing girl (see pictures). In reality she was not dancing, merely being shy and trying to cover her face as I tried to photograph her thereby creating the illusion. While parting the folks placed a violet coloured flower around our ears which they believe to be a good luck charm. I was truly overwhelmed by their hospitality.

In these parts I have realised, under the tutelage of Dharamveer, that a simple gesture like greeting juley (a kind of namastey in local dialect), with folded hands and slight bow, can help break the ice with locals.

From here we reached Kaza (3,660 metres), administrative headquarter of Spiti, which would be our abode for three nights. Kaza is the largest of all towns in Spiti (about 1,200 souls!) and has a bustling market place (selling everything - from items of daily need to curios for visitors like us – we purchased two Thangka paintings from here), bus-stand, petrol pump, hospital, and other facilities befitting a regional headquarter. Kaza also serves as the base for a number of mountaineers / trekkers who converge from all over the world to explore the Spiti Valley. In Kaza our home was Sakya Abode, the most popular hotel in the town (located next to the Kaza Monastery) – there is a beautiful array of white Stupas (Chortens) down the road from here. Tsering, the soft-spoken host of Sakya Abode, updated me on Chandra Taal lake, the route to which (a trek which begins from Kunzum La) had been closed for several days owing to heavy snowfall. The trip was getting unlikelier with each passing day as even efforts to clear the road were to no avail – glacial and mountain snow would slide and block the route again!

Day 4, Kaza – Langza – Hikkim – Komic – Kaza: I was eagerly looking forward to today as I have always wondered what life is like at great mountain heights. Our destinations for today were some of the highest inhabited and motorable villages in the world - all located at an altitude of 4,200 metres and more.

Our first stop was Langza (4,200 – 4,400 metres, 148 souls), the fossil capital of India. Several aeons back when the Indian sub-continent arrived from the Southern Hemisphere (Gondwana) and collided with the Asian mainland, its impact led to the creation of the world’s highest mountain range, the Himalayas. A by-result of the impact was the fossilisation of several marine and other creatures at the seam. Langza is one such place which was witness to that event and as testimony has several fossils to show - scattered in the nearby nullahs and valleys. While many have now disappeared due to looting and illegal sales, the villagers assured me that a keen eye could find one even today in the various nullahs here and beyond. A drive towards Langza brings up a huge statue of Gautam Buddha (built at the edge of a hillock) on the horizon with the towering Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak (6,300 metres) in the backdrop. This statue and a 500 year old monastery are the principal attractions of Langza. There is also a fossil centre (Chadua) in Langza, which we unfortunately could not visit.

The Langza monastery was a quaint place where an old priest went about his prayers – reading scriptures and beating a drum simultaneously, unmindful of the visitors. We lighted two lamps after a brief chat with the priest and also took some pictures with his consent. He later offered us tea. There were a few farms scattered about the village, wherever a flat ground could be found, which were cultivated through ingenious ways of irrigation. These were the only sources of green to the eye. Dharamveer informed us that bulk of the farming is of Peas. He also told us that during the winters when temperatures dip as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius, the villagers largely prefer to stay indoors, living upon the supplies collected during the few months of summer.

From here we proceeded further towards Komic (also spelled Comic / Gomic - 4,275 metres, 114 souls), passing Hikkim village on the way – there is a shortcut from Hikkim to Kaza and hence we decided to tour Hikkim later. We could catch a sweeping 180 degrees panoramic view of the snow laden Himalayas from these places. The old Komic Gompa (monastery) situated at about 4,587 metres is perhaps world’s highest monastery and is about nine millennia old. Our entry into the old monastery, quite small and non-descript in comparison to others, was greeted by the horrific sight of a dead snow leopard’s stuffed body, its bulging eyes ogling at us! Spiti Valley, in particular Pin Valley National Park, is home to snow leopards and several other endangered animals. After offering our obeisance here, we went to the grand new monastery, which also has several rooms for the monks to stay. The outside of the monastery was painted quite attractively using a combination of four-five colours and had ornately decorated windows. Here too the folks graciously offered us some tea (seemed like an official merry making drink of the Spiti Valley!) and chatted for a while. One of them also played the flute for us, crafting an almost mystical setting – tea, music, Buddhism, Himalayas!

From Komic we offered a local man Karam Singh a ride in our vehicle. He was a resident of Hikkim and in return offered to show us the ruins of an abandoned Tangyud monastery and some caves. On the Komic – Hikkim route we saw the snow laden Shila Peak (6,132 metres) popping out its near perfect triangular head from behind the brown arid mountains. A little beyond Hikkim village, we parked our vehicle on the road and started descending on a steep incline by foot. Karam Singh told us these old caves were once used for meditation. He initially lured us by saying it’s a small walk – but then I should have known better that at an elevation of 4,500 metres, small walk for a mountain dweller would mean a laborious and breath-sapping effort for a Mumbaikar! We finally gave up as it seemed just too distant and the descent was steep. We then walked up (a easy hike this one!) to the abandoned monastery which was built overlooking the Kaza village (thousands of feet “straight” below) on one side and a valley and canyon on the other sides. The view afforded from the ruins was worth all the effort. Karam Singh informed us that the monastery had been abandoned many years ago due to acute water shortage following an earthquake (a stream had changed its course). On the way back, Dharamveer showed us a stone which he found amidst the rubble at the monastery. It had some sacred Buddhist words inscribed on it!

Day 5, Kaza – Kye – Kibber – Tashigang – Kaza: Today again we would be touring the highest villages of the world. After yesterday, our lungs were primed for it. Our first destination was the Kye Monastery (also spelled Ki / Kee / Key; 4,150 metres), which is the biggest monastery and Buddhist learning centre in Spiti Valley. The Kye monastery complex is a closely packed congregation of white houses built on a hillock overlooking the Spiti River. It is also known as Little Tibet.

Inside the monastery, a monk showed us some 800 years old Thangka paintings, murals, musical instruments and several carefully preserved manuscripts – many of which were brought centuries ago from Tibet. Once here, people should also visit the upper floor / terrace of the monastery for a 360 degrees view of the valley and lungtas strung from ornately decorated pillars.

In the prayer hall of new Gompa, four monks were engrossed in a prayer and we stood there for a few minutes observing their rituals. Their singing and music elevated us to a trance like state. I was shaken out of my trance by Dharamveer who prodded me to resume our journey towards Tashigang. It was only upon reaching the vehicle that I realised the reason for his impatience. Seated in the backseat was an octogenarian monk with a walking stick in one hand, beaded holy thread in the other and a slightly hunched back. He had not been to Tashigang for years and saw through us an opportunity to visit it now. He planned to stay there for a few days. Most monks travel to neighbouring monasteries on foot, trekking the Himalayas. However, his age obviously forbid him from doing so. Which also made me wonder how would he comeback since few vehicles ever visited Tashigang.

Tashigang is a remote village with about five - six homes and is known more for the La Darcha fair grounds. The monastery here is about a millennium old and housed in a small mud structure with thatched roof. The area around Tashigang also serves as pasture and breeding place for horses. Declining an offer for tea from the local folks, we motored ahead towards Kibber admiring the Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak, which is visible from here as well.

Kibber village was larger than all the villages we had seen in the last two days with about hundred houses. In the precincts of Kibber monastery I met a group of people from Maharashtra who had tried visiting Chandra Taal Lake. They informed me that the trail was packed with snow and that any attempt to walk would make the person slip and end up 10-15 feet away! Even though I knew during all these days that going to Chandra Taal would be a long shot, this bit of news killed the last vestiges of hope that were still embedded in my heart. Later in the night Tsering confirmed that Chandra Taal would not be possible and so we decided to visit the Pin Valley for our last sojourn.

Day 6, Kaza – Kungri – Sagnam – Mudh – Kaza: As is said, what God taketh with one hand, He giveth (sometimes more) with the other! That in short is the sum and substance of Day 6. Little did we realise, when we woke up, that for the first time we would get to experience the true spirit and culture of the inhabitants of Spiti in all its splendour and finery!

Pin Valley is connected to Spiti Valley by a solitary bridge (Attargu) across Pin River. Most of the valley has been declared as the Pin Valley National Park, spread over an approximate area of 675 sq. Km. It is a natural habitat for endangered species like the Snow Leopard, Himalayan Ibex, Bharal, Red Fox, Snow Cock, Lammergeier, Woolly Hare, etc. Since the terrain is mountainous, tracking these creatures is only possible by exploring the vast expanses of the valley on foot with the aid of experts. I, however, managed to spot a scrambling Red Fox, a Lammergeier in flight and a few mountain goats on our way back in the evening.

Our principal destination for the day was the ancient Kungri Gompa (also spelled Ghungri / Khungri; 3,520 metres). It is the main centre of Nyingmapa order of Vajrayana sect of Buddhism in Spiti and widely popular for the sword dance performances of Buzhens. Upon reaching the monastery we learnt that a two day cultural fair was on over there. Today, being the second day, the Lamas (monks) would be performing a number of Cham dances (also spelled Chham) for the dignitaries and residents of Pin Valley. Interspersed with these were folk dance performances by the students of the region and some comic acts by juvenile monks to lighten up the mood. We reached at about 10.00 AM, in the nick of time, as the proceedings were about to begin…

The Cham dance is a form of ancient Tibetan masked dance, which is performed in groups to the beat of traditional Tibetan instruments. It involves rhythmic circular movements, slow and minimal movements of the hand and feet, and periodic displays of energy when the Lama swirls 360 degrees in a flash by jumping in the air. While most dances appear the same (atleast to the layman), they vary in the design and type of various symbolic items used – masks, ornaments, costumes, head-gears, use of certain articles like daggers, Tibetan drums, etc. - each having its own meaning and interpretation. The dances are used to narrate different stories / incidents from the religious texts and to preach lessons. One cannot help but be awed by the sheer vibrancy of colours on display. These dances, while they appear simple, require lot of practice and co-ordination since the masks have no eye – holes!

The performances had the audience in gasps and raptures. This cultural affair provided me with plenty of opportunities to photograph the mood, the facets, the culture and colours of the people of Spiti in an atmosphere of candour and gaiety. The only regret was that we could not see the beautiful monastery from inside since it was closed on the occasion for visitors. The loss of Chandra Taal was squarely behind me.

As the event was drawing to a close, around 4.00 PM, we decided to checkout some of the other villages of Pin Valley such as Sagnam (the largest), Mikkim and Mudh (remotest). After spending some time admiring the scenery from Mudh and chatting with the locals (no tea this time) we returned back to Kaza. En route, we offered an Israeli trekker a ride in our vehicle. He was on a long visit to India exploring the Himalayan regions of Sikkim, Nepal, Varanasi, Rishikesh, Haridwar, Spiti and was soon headed for Ladakh. He was as much mesmerised by the place as we were.

Day 7, Kaza – Losar – Kunzum La – Batal – Chatru – Rohtang Pass – Manali:

The thing about Spiti is that it’s not over until it’s over. The drive from Kaza to Rohtang Pass is perhaps one of the most picturesque in India. Since we had to traverse some 200 odd Kms in a single day, we left Kaza at about 7.00 AM. The route is notorious for unexpected stoppages due to landslides / snow-slides as well as traffic jams at the Rohtang Pass. Hence, it was imperative that we reached Chatru by 4.00 PM.

By 9:30 AM we were at the Losar check-post (also spelled Lossar; 4,079 metres). Most visitors prefer to use Losar as their base for the trek to Chandra Taal Lake, which begins from about 18 Kms from here. Natives here were discussing how the unexpected snowing and the resultant closure of the route had affected their business. As such the valley attracts tourists for mere three-four months and any loss of day can mean heavy losses for the tourism industry.

In about an hour’s time we were driving through the Chandra Valley and as we neared Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass), we realised that we were now completely surrounded by snow – like a boat in the middle of an ocean. At about 4,590 metres, the area around Kunzum La is the highest in the region. The white clouds near the peaks of Chandra and Bhaga mountain ranges appeared like smoke billowing from chimneys. The Chandra River was now our companion (it goes on to meet Bhaga River near Tandi to form Chenab River) and the roads were lined with snow up to 10 feet high! From a distance we could see one of the world’s five largest non-Polar glaciers, the Bara Shigri Glacier – like white and grey lava flowing down a mountain.

At the Kunzum top there is a temple, which Chortens, dedicated to Goddess Kali. We spent about 15 minutes here – photographing the spectacular mountain peaks and the Bara Shigri Glacier. There were also quite a few herds of sheep and lamb grazing around the place on whatever little grass could be found. This entire region is a hotbed of small and large glaciers – Bara Shigri, Chhota Shigri, Kulti, Shipting, Pacha, Chandra, Ding Karmo, Gyephang, Bolunag, Shili, Shamundri, etc. It is believed that the Chandra Taal Lake was formed many years ago by the Bara Shigri Glacier due to geological disturbance in the region.

After praying at the temple for a safe journey we moved on toward Batal. Barely 30 minutes in to the drive and we encountered a serious roadblock. An earthmover was clearing mounds of snow that had slid on to the road. We decided to make the most of this opportunity and asked Dharamveer to click some clichéd pictures of us – playing in the snow against the backdrop of Bara Shigri Glacier.

The drive from here onward, though not steep, was very difficult. The roads, which would intermittently cross river beds, were full of small rocks and often streams of water from the melting snow would cross violently over them making it difficult for Dharamveer to navigate the vehicle over invisible rocks. Occasionally the wheel would get stuck. Other times the vehicle would simply bounce and swerve. Our anxiety was however alleviated by the sight of glacial ponds, frozen river beds and waterfalls. The dappled light falling on the valley and refracting in the air gave the sky an almost cosmic appearance.

Around 12.45 PM we reached Batal where we stopped to have tea. The chilling weather clearly warranted it. Batal is all of three – four dhabas (food joint) where most motorists, after a strenuous drive, relax to have lunch. Further, we reached Chatru (3,385 metres) around 3.00 PM where again we halted for some refreshments. The weather from here onward was similar to the one we encountered on the Shimla – Kalpa drive. Skies were overcast, it almost seemed like 7.00PM, and a light drizzle was on incessantly.

The drive to Rohtang Pass was a slow, winding drive upwards. A climb made difficult by the heavy fog, which had reduced visibility down to a few feet. I would have my heart in my mouth every time Dharamveer would negotiate a turn, as neither the valley nor the bend in the road were visible. Dharamveer had to call upon all his experience, accumulated over 20 years of driving in these mountain passes, to reach us safely to Manali. Around 5.30 PM we were finally at the Rohtang Top. The place was crammed with innumerable shops that sell refreshments in the day time. A lot of tourists visit Rohtang Top to experience snow (mostly for the first time) and shamelessly leave behind a litter of plastic, a sight which I could not digest. Finally after an hour of descent we reached Manali and with it came to an end a journey which I can only describe as an odyssey.

“At last they entered a world within a world – a valley of leagues where the high hills were fashioned of the mere rubble and refuse from off the knees of the mountains…. ‘Surely the Gods live here,’ said Kim, beaten down by the silence and the appalling sweep and dispersal of the cloud-shadows after rain. ‘This is no place for men!”

– Rudyard Kipling writes about Spiti in his book ‘Kim’.

Travel tip...

The best time to visit Lahaul – Spiti is during the summer months of June – September. One could start either from Shimla or Manali depending upon his convenience and / or the mood of Rohtang Pass. Since one would be living at great heights, it is advisable that he consults his physician before embarking on the journey. As one may have realised from the travelogue, having the right vehicle and the right man at the helm of affairs is perhaps the most critical aspect of travelling to Spiti. It is hence my suggestion that you contact people who are absolutely trustworthy and are experienced in providing advice in the region. While it is possible to book a cab from the Manali taxi stand, you wouldn’t know beforehand about either the quality of the vehicle or the driver. I have always planned my own trips and done the bookings myself. But, as I researched about the place, I realised that this one trip had to be done differently.

Having availed of their services, I would not hesitate one bit to recommend the guys at ‘Incredible Spiti’ – customised travel and adventure solutions provider for the Spiti region. The success of my trip owes a great deal to Vishesh Shourie and his team's meticulous planning, good selection of vehicle and hotels and a continuous drive to ensure that we had a great time. It was also wonderful to see how they handled a last minute change in itinerary owing to the closure of Kunzum La. Without them we would have been probably stuck.
You could give them the itinerary and budget and they will design a trip around it. Alternatively you could just book the vehicle and / or hotels through them or merely ask them for trip advice!

Lastly, I would suggest that you keep your budgets flexible by at least 30 - 50% to meet contingencies like change of route, health problems, need to overstay owing to closure of roads, inclement weather, etc.

Go, attain nirvana!

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, Maharashtra, India - A journey into the wild!

2010-06-05T13:57:00.025+05:30

Planning a "hot" weekend excursion... Two months back a casual discussion with my friend on visiting a national park for our May – June sojourn threw up Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR), located in the Indian State of Maharashtra, as an option. The park was not only brimming with tigers, but we had also never been there earlier, and the place had been in news as a number of tiger cubs had been born there in the past 12 months. The best part was that we could cover the place over a weekend! While we knew that temperatures in this part of the country could touch 48 degrees Celsius in May – June, we also knew that summers were the best time to sight tigers and the number of casual tourists too would be fewer. Coming close on the heels of my visit to the Ranthambhore National Park, I was naturally excited about the prospect. Deciding to look no further, we packed our bags and set sail....

For a slide show of complete set of pictures from Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve, please click HERE.

Exploring the wild side of Maharashtra... Also called the "Jewel of Vidarbha", Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve is Maharashtra's oldest National Park located in the Chandrapur district, about 155 KM from the Nagpur International Airport. TATR is home to about 43 Royal Bengal Tigers (Panthera Tigris Tigris - India's National Animal), some 80 species of other mammals and 280 species of birds. A Southern Tropical Dry Deciduous Forest, it is largely a flatland with 40 per cent of its area covered with bamboo trees, which gives it a unique appearance. Compared to other popular tiger reserves in India, TATR is relatively under-explored and under-photographed. The place has only of late been attracting tourists and is slowly coming up on the Indian wildlife circuit. At the moment, however, people from the Nagpur - Chandrapur belt comprise bulk of the tourists.

The moment we stepped out of the plane at Nagpur airport, in the evening, we experienced scalding heat and we immediately knew that we were in for some testing times. Our journey to Tadoba began on a good note. Even as we were driving towards Chandrapur we sighted a Jungle Cat, pair of Spotted Owlets perched on a tree, Common Palm Civet and Spotted Doves. The trailer was good....we now had to wait for a few more hours for the film to begin! The wait seemed quite long. We reached the MTDC Moharli Tourist Complex at around 10 PM and retired for the day after having dinner... with dreams of sighting a tiger.

Tadoba, a birder's paradise! ... For the first day we decided to choose jungle safaris (morning and evening) inside the Tadoba range of the forest (Moharli and Kolsa ranges being the other two open to tourists). As we drove through the bamboo lined tracks of Tadoba, we spotted Sambar Deers, Chitals (Spotted Deer), Gaur (Indian Bison), Indian Wild Boars, Barking Deer (Muntjac), Black - naped Hare, Common Mongoose, Indian Peafowl (Peacock - National Bird of India), mischievous and errant Common Langurs (Hanuman Langur - they are my best friends!), Changeable Hawk Eagle and the rare Flying Squirrel (we were lucky enough to see it glide). Owing to the bamboo thickets, animal sightings were fewer when compared to some of the other national parks in India. Every now and then I would feel the urge to climb one of the many machaans (watch tower) that dot the forest and soak in the panoramic view from there.

As we passed the scenic Tadoba Lake, we spotted an Asian Openbill, Great Egret, Pond Heron, Oriental Honey Buzzards (some were perched on trees, some sitting along the shore) and Peregrine "Shaheen" Falcon. We patrolled the range and halted at two prominent water holes (Ambepat and Jamunbari), waiting for any alarm calls that might signal the arrival of the King of the Jungle, the beast of prey, the tiger himself. These water holes enabled us to indulge in birding and we had some excellent sightings at Ambepat - Yellow Crowned Woodpecker, Oriental White Eye, Brahminy Starling, Grey Junglefowl, Great Tit, Black - naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Blue - winged Leafbird, Black Headed Munias, Orange Headed Thrush, etc. The area was buzzing with birds and several of them came to drink water and give us photo-ops. Thanks to the wait, our bird count was a respectable 40 something by the end of the day.

However, the tiger proved elusive throughout the day. In the evening we heard alarm calls near a water hole (Ambepat) and waited patiently, crammed with 10 other vehicles, for the tiger to come and quench his thirst. The tiger, though, never came. He probably neared the spot and walked away elsewhere (or maybe just sat some place nearby keeping a watch on us), maybe to return later so he could drink peacefully away from the gaze of human eyes. We returned to the hotel with a heavy heart. We were schedule to tour the Moharli range on the following day and so we joked on our drive back that tigers would be sighted in the Tadoba range tomorrow. While the mind knew that sighting a tiger is a matter of chance, the heart wouldn't listen!

On a dhudum - dhadam - dhudum journey...Visitors to the Tadoba range of the park should be prepared to receive some jolts of their lifetime. The entry gate (Khatoda gate) to the Tadoba range is about an hour's drive from Moharli. The drive on that stretch (located outside the park) is so bumpy that it will rattle every bone, massage each muscle and jangle many joints. One may be well advised to carry a crude seating plate with shock absorbers on the underside or a pillow (a la Saif Ali Khan of the Bollywood blockbuster 'Dil Chahta Hai'). The jungle tracks inside the Tadoba range seemed to be a joy ride in comparison! Wildlife lovers are always prepared to brave bumpy rides inside the jungle, but on an approach road, which is dotted with villages, it is appalling to see the road in such pitiable condition and further highlights the grim realities of the Vidarbha region! Occasionally one sights boards saying Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojana... may be someday there will be a decent road which makes the journey a bearable one - more so for people like us who haven't had the fortune of sighting a tiger.

Tryst with the Charming Lady of Moharli... Moharli range being the most popular amongst local tourists, the forest officials permit more number of vehicles (about 20) inside this range compared to others. It was thus imperative for us to enter the park early. Alas, all hopes were dashed as a scuffle broke out outside the gate in the morning, thereby delaying the entry of vehicles by a good 45 minutes, sigh!

In order to prevent disturbance to a tigress and her litter of four cubs, the route to the water hole where they frequently come to drink had been recently closed to tourists. This left us with the Teliya Lake area and the main road (its a coal-tar road) with its water hole number 2 to search for the tiger. We first toured the beautiful Teliya Lake area which is surrounded by grassland. Herein we spotted a solitary Lesser Adjutant Stork and Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) lying on the lake shore. Perched on a nearby tree we spotted four-five Oriental Honey Buzzards, which, save for one, flew away as vehicles neared the spot.

After spending some time here we drove straight to water hole number 2 and camped there for the rest of the morning. The forest guide Neelkanth told us that the tiger would surely appear here as apart from Teliya Lake this was the only other source of water for him and of late he had been quite regular here.

Thirty minutes later we heard an alarm call from a Sambar Deer and we all stood up on our seats expecting the tiger to soon put in an appearance. Things however quickly quietened and we slumped into our seats. After a two hour wait under the scorching sun and with barely half hour left for us to head back, we heard the rustling of leaves behind the bamboo thickets. Suddenly one could see some movement through the thick vegetation (perfectly camouflaged) and finally, stealthily a gorgeous four year old tigress appeared before us. Her golden coat, glistening in the sun, is one of the best I have seen. Charming young lady, I must say! She sat in the water hole and drank from it for five minutes. All we could see, as she lay there, was her face. Our view was obstructed by a huge tree and we were cursing our luck for that. She then got up, glanced around and disappeared into the bamboo thicket and rested at a spot about 10-15 meters inside... bamboo-zling onlookers.

Though pleased with the proceedings thus far, our instinct told us this would be our last and only sighting during the trip. We were, however, not willing to give up!

During the evening we drove straight to the water hole number 2 and parked ourselves beside it. Afternoon turned to evening, a State Transport bus passed by us (!!!); Sirkeer Malkoha, Indian Roller and many other birds came, quenched their thirst and went away. We even sang some Bollywood songs, in muffled tones, calling for the tiger. However, there were no alarm calls, no movement. The sun was just about to set on the horizon and we decided to drive back.

Upon reaching the hotel we learnt that in the Tadoba range tiger sightings had occurred (as we had expected - Murphy's Law). In one instance a wary tiger and a huge gaur (Indian Bison) were found sharing a water hole with each giving the other angry stares and making attempts to go at each other. We got to see the video of the entire proceedings and struggled to sleep later in the night!

A memorable drive in sylvan Kolsa... Our last tiger safari was in TATR's most scenic, greener and cooler range, the Kolsa range, which lies on the other side of Andhari River. It's the kind of forest we imagine while reading books. Even though we had been forewarned that tiger sightings in this range were rare, we nonetheless pushed ahead, hoping to try our luck. As we entered through the Moharli gate and took the diversion on the right towards Kolsa, we were welcomed by the sight of a Sloth Bear. But he was so shy that he immediately made for the bushes. Owing to dense growth in this area, we had to constantly mind our head for bamboos jutting out. But the drive was indeed a memorable one, trees here were taller compared to other ranges, water more abundant and the sheer beauty of the place made up for fewer sightings.

As we waited at a water hole, a vehicle came and informed us that they had sighted a male tiger at a point where we had been several minutes ago. They had been there before us and therefore enjoyed the privilege. This again proved the importance of entering the park early as I had mentioned in my earlier post as well. However, we learned from the same people that the tiger didn't drink at the water hole then and there was a possibility he might reappear. We abandoned our current position and rushed to this spot. After some patient wait we decided to check out some other water bodies. On our way we spotted a Crested Serpent Eagle and a Common Hawk Cuckoo each carrying kills. We were blessed!

Disappointed at not having sighted a tiger we decided to halt near the Andhari River on our way back. The place is a veritable hotspot for birds - Indian Pitta, Common Kingfisher, Greater Racket - tailed Drongo, Black - naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatchers, Rufous Treepies, etc. were all playing over there. Kolsa was also home to plenty of woodpeckers.

Tigers, and more!... At the end of it all, though we were a trifle disappointed at having sighted a solitary tiger for a few minutes, we were happy at the wonderful birding opportunities and jungle sightings, in general, that we had. Not to mention the sight of the extremely shy Sloth Bear, who is even more difficult to sight than a tiger is. I am sure there are a lot of hidden treasures in this jungle, tucked away somewhere in the thick vegetation. All in all I would say Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve is a good place for people who have loads of patience and want to enjoy the jungle in its entirety. The tiger is not just the only attraction. If one is willing to accept this fact then TATR is an excellent virgin destination for serious wildlife enthusiasts and a birder's paradise!

Following is the complete list of birds we sighted at TATR -

Spotted Owlet, Spotted Dove, Brahminy Starling, Black Shouldered (Winged) Kite, Common Kingfisher, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Oriental Magpie Robin, Common Myna, House Crow, Rock Pigeon, Indian Roller, Pied Myna, White Throated Kingfisher, Asian Openbill, Great Egret, Pond Heron, Long Tailed Shrike, Indian Pitta, Oriental White-eye, Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Male & Female), Crested Serpent Eagle, Black Drongo, White Bellied Drongo, White Browed Fantail, Peregrine "Shaheen" Falcon, Great Tit, Rufous Treepie, Black Naped Monarch, Yellow Crowned Woodpecker, Blue Winged Leafbird, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Orange Headed Thrush, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black Headed Munia, Jungle Babbler, Large Billed Crow, Greater Coucal, Green Bee-eater, Purple Sunbird, Red Vented Bulbul, Red Wattled Lapwing, Eurasian Thick - knee, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher, Black Rumped Flameback, Yellow Footed Green Pigeon, Common Cuckoo, Asian Palm Swift, Cattle Egret, Eurasian Sparrow Hawk, Common Tailorbird, Lesser Adjutant Stork, House Sparrow, White Eyed Buzzard, Shikra, Sirkeer Malkoha, Ashy Prinia, Brown Headed Barbet, Changeable Hawk Eagle, White Naped Woodpecker (Male & Female), Indian Peafowl, Grey Junglefowl.

Closing thoughts... Before I end I would like to highlight some points -

The process of entry into the park can be a bit baffling for the first time visitor to TATR. The following variables are subject to change at the drop of a hat - number of vehicles permitted inside, routes on which vehicles can travel, place of booking (it has now been shifted from the gate to Chandrapur), etc. Planning and getting hold of a good safari operator is thus imperative, lest you waste time and energy in trying to get in rather than enjoying the wildlife inside.

A fact that annoyed me the most was that anybody who has a four wheeler can use it for safari as long as he hires a forest guide. Now one has to wonder what experience does such a person have of driving inside a national park and what does he care for the rules of the jungle? - another Bandhavgarh National Park type tragedy (where a tigress died on being hit by a vehicle) is perhaps waiting to happen! This is also not all. An S. T. (State Transport) bus periodically passes on the arterial road (see pic, one can see other vehicles waiting patiently for the tiger) in the Moharli range of the park - inside the core area! Let me not comment on this matter any further, it needs to be denounced in strongest terms!

Coming to the place of stay. Accommodation facilities in Tadoba are very limited. We stayed at the MTDC Tadoba Moharli Tourist Complex. This is the place where most people choose to stay (Hobson's choice). Like most MTDC hotels, its trump card is its location. It is located at a five minutes' drive from the Moharli gate of the park. And like most MTDC hotels, the benefits end there. Food is barely comestible (though I must admit that the chap makes good fresh lime juice and dal fry), service is ofcourse non-existent, rooms are just about liveable. In fact, in the room where two of my co-travellers were staying, thousands of big black ants (Carpenter ants for the scientifically minded) emerged out of the bathroom sink (a la 'The Mummy', the Hollywood movie) the moment they stepped in!

As the Indian economy has been galloping over the last few years, the Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve has come under immense pressure from industries wanting to mine coal in the vicinity. While coal is essential for meeting our energy requirements, should it be permitted in an eco-sensitive zone? It is for the nation to choose - whether we give importance to mining coal, which spews life threatening carbon dioxide, or protect the forest which releases life saving oxygen.

"If a man walks in the woods for love of them half of each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer. But if he spends his days as a speculator, shearing off those woods and making the earth bald before her time, he is deemed an industrious and enterprising citizen."

- Henry David Thoreau

Birds of Ranthambhore National Park, India

2010-05-18T21:38:00.008+05:30

This is a follow-up article to my previous post “The Tigers of Ranthambore”.

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of the Birds of Ranthambhore, please click here.

The Royal Bengal Tiger is the magnet that attracts thousands of visitors every year to the Ranthambhore National Park. However, birds form an equally important part of the biodiversity of this park’s ecosystem and one cannot help but admire their beauty and melodious voice. In fact on occasions, when sighting a tiger proves elusive, bird watching keeps your spirit buoyed.

Ranthambhore National Park is home to about 270 odd species of birds – resident plus migratory. The presence of Aravali & Vindhya mountain ranges, Chambal & Banas Rivers, and the three main lakes (Rajbagh Lake, Padam Lake, Mallik Lake) make Ranthambhore an ideal location for a rich and diverse avi-fauna to thrive.

Even as one is out on a tiger safari, he gets to spot a number of birds - flying, perched on top of trees, drinking from water holes or wading in one of the lakes. Sometimes they even land on your vehicle! However, photography opportunities are limited since the vehicles seldom halt to permit you the luxury to admire a bird, unless one gets to spot a rare bird such as a Red-Headed Vulture or a Painted Sandgrouse. The prime objective on such safaris is the wild cat.

The outskirts of the park, near the hotel, are also good birding spots as quite a few birds venture out into these areas. The other convenient photography opportunity is a visit to the Ranthambhore Fort where one can leisurely stroll and admire the birds around. If one is lucky, he may even get to spot a raptor flying at eye level from atop the fort.

Most of the photographs I have managed to take have been near the water holes, where vehicles halt and wait patiently for a tiger that may come by. Some others have been taken near the Rajbagh Lake and Padam Lake (from the balcony of Jogi Mahal).

Some of the birds that I sighted most frequently at Ranthambhore National Park were the Rufous Treepie (one could even call it the mascot of Ranthambhore), Crested Bunting, Indian Peafowl (Peacock), Jungle Babbler, Red Vented Bulbul and White Throated Kingfisher. I had to barely strain my neck to see them. They seemed ubiquitous. Sightings, however, vary depending upon the zones one gets as well as the time of the year one chooses to visit. Winter season is the prime time for birding as during this time the park plays host to a large number of migratory birds.

Following is the complete list of birds spotted by me at the Ranthambhore National Park during my three day stay -

Long Billed Vulture, Purple Sunbird, Indian Cormorant, Painted Stork, Great Egret, Brown Rock-Chat, Laughing Dove, Spotted Dove, Rock Pigeon, Rufous Treepie, Brahminy Duck (Ruddy Shelduck), Black Winged Stilt, Black Drongo, White Bellied Drongo, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Jungle Babbler, Red Wattled Lapwing, Purple Heron, Little Heron, Indian Peafowl, Red Vented Bulbul, White Throated Kingfisher, Shikra, Painted Spurfowl, Grey Francolin, Oriental Magpie Robin, House Crow, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, White Naped Woodpecker, Black Shouldered Kite, Little Heron, Pond Heron, Eurasian Collared Dove, Indian Pitta, Yellow Footed Green Pigeon, Common Hoppoe, Intermediate Egret, Cattle Egret, Grey Heron, Common Myna, Oriental White Eye, Chestnut Shouldered Petronia, House Sparrow, White Browed Fantail, Red Collared Dove, Indian Silverbill, Great Coucal, Small Minivet, Red Headed Vulture, Crested Bunting, Large Billed Crow, Common Woodshrike, Barn Owl, Spotted Owlet, Great Thick-Knee, White Breasted Waterhen, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Great Tit, Pied Myna, Painted Sandgrouse, Brahminy Starling, Darter, Black Headed Ibis, Shikra, Green Bee-Eater, Common Iora, Common Greenshank, Indian Robin, Common Kingfisher, Asian Koel, Black Kite, Eurasian Golden Oriole.

The Tigers of Ranthambhore National Park, India

2010-05-12T22:25:00.060+05:30

“A Tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage and that when he is exterminated – as exterminated he will be unless public opinion rallies to his support – India will be the [sic] poorer, having lost the finest of her fauna.”

– Jim Corbett, Man-Eaters of Kumaon (1944)

For a slide show of complete set of pictures of the Royal Bengal Tiger please click here.

Ranthambhore National Park…One of India’s premiere and most filmed abodes of the Royal Bengal Tiger (Panthera Tigris Tigris – India’s National animal), Ranthambhore National Park (also spelled as Ranthambore National Park), is located in the State of Rajasthan near Sawai Madhopur city. Located at the meeting point of Aravali and Vindhya mountain ranges, this tiger reserve houses about 35-40 tigers (latest census numbers are yet to be declared). Essentially a dry deciduous forest, it is littered with wide ranging topography – open grasslands, rocky mountains, meadows, gentle sloping mountains, Chambal and Banas rivers, and three lakes – Padam, Rajbagh and Malik. The once impregnable tenth century Rajput fort, called the Ranthambhore Fort, overlooks the vast expanse of the forest from atop the mountain. This unique blend of history, changing terrains and wildlife lends Ranthambhore its mystique and aura.

Embarking on our journey…Over the years I had heard a lot about the wonderful tiger sightings in the park, tales of its famous tigers like the Machali, and seen innumerable pictures and videos. I was chafing at the bit and finally decided to visit it in the first week of May 2010, despite warnings from friends and relatives about the heat in Rajasthan. We boarded the August Kranti Rajdhani from Mumbai for Sawai Madhopur and thus began our eventful journey. I begin the narration below from our first tiger safari…

First Day No Show…Fresh from the visit to Ranthambhore Fort in the morning, we were all set for our first tiger safari in the afternoon. We were allotted Zone 5 for this trip (zone allotments are randomly done my the computer) . Even though we knew that sighting a tiger is a matter of chance and needs loads of patience, our gut was filled with excitement and anticipation. The afternoon heat of Rajasthani summer was a trivial matter. The sight of a carnivore was all that we wanted. With poor rains last year and summer at its peak, the forest wore a coat of yellow and brown, trees were naked and water holes were scarce. This setting was perfect for a tiger sighting as not only we could see through the woods, we also knew the tiger would have to come to those limited water holes to quench his thirst or cool himself or feast on the prey.

Our hearts would start racing at the mere sight of pugmarks. Sights of Common Langurs (Hanuman Monkey) making faces and jumping around, herds of Sambar Deers, Chitals (Spotted Deers), and a few Nilgais (Blue Bull) grazing and drinking at the water holes kept our spirits buoyed. Birds provided the music. The jungle was wild and alive all around. We toured the whole of Zone 5, checked out all water holes and probable areas where a tiger had been sighted earlier. We drew a blank! We even ventured near a spot, which we were told was the abode of a tiger that only few weeks ago had killed a man nearby. Gulp! To put things straight, the man had apparently ventured into restricted area for his donkey to graze. Sensing easy prey, the tiger attacked the donkey, and the man, in his attempt to save his beast of burden, interfered in the proceedings. Irritated, the tiger in a fit of rage probably decided to take the man down. We sensed, as we neared the spot, that there was a tiger nearby…the atmosphere was pregnant with it…he was probably seeing us, but we couldn’t spot him!

We had to draw solace from the sight of deers, langurs and plenty of beautiful birds including the National Bird of India - Indian Peafowl (Peacock). We reluctantly exited the park with the hope that we had four more tiger safaris to go and that a new day would probably herald a new beginning.

Oh! Lord Ganesha!…For the morning safari on Day 2 we were once again allotted Zone 5. Though disappointed, we said alright who knows we might spot it this time around, after all tigers do reside in this zone. We spotted a mongoose on our way in and my friend Desh Bandhu Vaid joked that if we spot one more mongoose then it would be a good augury for tiger sighting. Alas, it was not to be. To say the least – “it was an encore of previous one”. We drew blank again and had to draw solace from the sight of pugmarks of a Sloth Bear, a Red-headed Vulture, Oriental White-eye, Common Hoopoe, Indian Silverbill, dancing langurs and many other beautiful birds. My bird count soared to 50 at the end of this safari.

Things now began to get interesting as we heard tales of tiger sightings in other zones and had to suffer the ignominy of the hotel staff at the breakfast table giving us puzzled looks on learning we couldn’t sight a tiger even after two trips to the park. I thought may be we were being unlucky because we didn’t offer obeisance at the Ganesha temple at the fort on the previous day (being a Wednesday and that too some special Wednesday, thousands of devotees had converged at the temple and not wanting to spend hours in the queue, we decided to give the temple a miss!!!).

Fishing for Machali…Our journey into the Zone 4 for our third tiger safari began in the afternoon on a more sombre note as we had lowered our expectations by several notches. We were the first to enter the zone – an important factor if you want to enjoy the sight of a tiger from a vantage point longer than others and before he is disturbed by the sound of other vehicles and its noisy passengers. This time around we were really enjoying the sight of deers (including the shy and rare Chinkara or the Indian Gazelle), dancing peacocks, songs of the birds, the woods, rocky mountains, et al. The terrain here was quite difficult and as we checked out one water hole after another we were getting a feeling that we might end up drawing a blank again. But this is jungle. Things can suddenly and always unexpectedly happen! And the animal we were looking for was the king of the jungle! An unpredictable beast of prey!

As we were returning after checking out the remotest point of the zone, we neared a spot called Addi Dagar and immediately heard a tiger alarm call. We rushed to the spot and lo behold found the 13 year old Machali Tigress cooling herself in the pond. Now Machali is one legend of a tigress of Ranthambhore, perhaps the most popular in the world, and also goes by the moniker "Lady of the Lakes". With a body of the size of a male, this award winning tigress is known for her dare devilry (such as killing huge crocodiles). After all she is the daughter of the original Empress of Ranthambhore National Park, who was also called Machali. Even at this grand old age and without her canines she is able to hunt by breaking the backs of her prey by jumping on them!

The feeling of sighting a tiger at last (almost towards the end of the third safari) is indescribable. And even more indescribable is the sight of a tiger, a legendary one that too! Soon Machali raised herself and started walking out of water and our driver deftly manoeuvred the gypsy (jeep) towards a spot Machali would walk to. This expert anticipation came from my friend and the Guru of Ranthambhore Desh Bandhu Vaid who was travelling with us. We got her full frontal view as she walked towards us. The other gypsies were only following her, watching her backside, and we merrily clicked away pictures. Soon thereafter she vanished into the woods and we all burst into animated conversation about the whole experience. The graceful walk, the shining coat, the steely gaze and the overall ferocity in her face…It’s a surreal feeling! At one point in time she was just a “foot” away from our gypsy. We could have shaked hands with her. A lady in the backseat screamed and my wife closed her eyes at that moment!

We rode out of the park gazing at the setting sun, with the feeling yet to sink in! Our luck had changed…for sure.

Tiger watching in the lap of heritage…As we sauntered out of our hotel rooms at 5:30 AM on Day 3 for the morning safari, little did we expect how eventful the day would turn out to be. The moment our gypsy reached the entrance of Zone 3 we got a message from the forest officer that tiger alarm calls were being heard near the Padam Lake. We rushed our gypsy towards Jogi Mahal (built overlooking the scenic Padam Talao and near India’s second largest Banyan tree) and saw the three year old tigress Sundari (T-17), daughter of Machali, taking a leisurely walk on the banks of Padam Lake. Sensing the direction of her walk, my friend anticipated that the tigress would walk out of the lake and emerge on the approach road to Zone 3. The driver drove the gypsy along the approach road and we saw the tigress emerge out on the hill to our right. This time again we got to enjoy her full frontal view as she strode out on the road, glanced around and finally disappeared into the woods to our left. We were truly blessed!

We now ventured to tour the Zone 3. Zone 3 is the most scenic of all zones (total five) of Ranthambore National Park. One gets spectacular views of the Padam Lake, Rajbagh Lake and the once invincible Ranthambhore Fort atop the mountain. The lakes are prime locations for spotting several crocodiles and birds like the – Painted Stork, Great Egret, Cormorants, Sandpipers, Great thick-knee, Little Heron, Black-headed Ibis, Brahminy duck, Darter, etc. During the course of the drive, the forest guide in our gypsy developed a stomach upset and we had to return to the entrance to drop him. On the way we spotted a Black-headed Ibis on the banks of Rajbagh Lake and decided we would return to photograph it after dropping the guide. As we returned to the spot later, we heard a tiger alarm call go. We turned our heads and saw the three and a half year old T-28 Star male tiger emerge stealthily from the dry grasses, ambling along the banks of Rajbagh Lake. Out for his customary morning walk I guess! The tiger drank some water from the lake, patrolled the area and later emerged on the vehicle track. Like on previous occasions, this tiger too obliged us with some great pictures and finally walked away to rest inside the King’s Hunting Palace on the other side of Rajbagh Lake.

Thrilled to the core, we were returning back thanking our luck for managing two tiger sightings in a single trip. Guess what?, Sundari reappeared on the track. She marked her territory and then disappeared into the woods – third sighting, gee!. Back to the hotel we raised a toast to the lady luck that was shining upon us as brightly as the Rajasthan sun.

Saving the best for the last…After a sumptuous lunch we embarked on our final tiger safari before we left for another jungle, albeit a concrete one…Mumbai in the night. Our entry into Zone 2 was greeted by the sight of a Shikra and a baby crocodile lying submerged in a small water hole. This time too we were the first to enter the zone. And this effort was amply rewarded. We heard alarm calls as we neared a water hole and sped towards it to see the two year old Sultanpur tigress lying lazily near the pool of water (10 meters below from where we stood) in the company of Cormorants, Common Kingfisher and a White browed Fantail. Being the first and only ones thus far to sight her, we had full five minutes of uninterrupted view of her from a position of our choice before others joined in. She would intermittently raise her head, glance around, fix her steely gaze upon us, yawn, sip some water and then just lie about.

However, we kept hearing the original alarm calls from Peacocks, Sambar Deers and Langurs from about 100 metres away. Instantly we knew that all that glitters is not gold, sometimes it could even be platinum! There was another tiger nearby (yet to appear in sight) and something was going to happen – a territorial fight? may be mating? We would be blessed to see any of this and capture it in our cameras. We heard the rustling of the dry leaves and turned our heads leftward to see the six/seven year old T-12 tiger stride down from the hill towards the water hole.

The tigress immediately stood up, taking note of the presence of a competitor, and for a few moments stared at the male tiger and then slumped back to her resting posture. We were puzzled! What the heck, a surrender? We looked closely at the T-12 male using our binoculars and saw that he was injured near his left eye. He had had a fight before and so he wouldn’t fight now, so why the surrender? Would they mate? Desh Bandhu now told me that the tigress was probably too young to mate and would perhaps think of procreation only after a year. We then realised that T-12 is the father of this Sultanpur tigress and may be she just bowed in deference or may be they just had a pact on sharing the water hole. We couldn’t say anything for sure. Everyone was puzzled.

Nothing happened for another ten minutes. The T-12 male walked down to the water hole, drank some water, lay in it lazily for a few minutes and walked back to a spot nearby where he lied probably for the rest of the day. We decided to take a tour inside the zone and comeback to this spot later. The driver was anxious to mark his attendance at the chowkie (forest station) inside. This zone is known for leopard (Panthera Pardus) sightings and we thought who knows we may get to see another carnivore. On our way we saw a leopard kill – a half eaten Spotted Deer (Chital). We knew the leopard was around and was monitoring his kill and probably us too. But we couldn’t spot him. While returning from the chowkie another gypsy passed by us and its driver told us “sahib, neeche majedar bhalu dikh raha hai” (Sir, there is a nice Sloth Bear show going on down the road). We knew the bear was probably gone by now since no gypsy driver would lose sight of one only to report it to others. And true to our hunch we didn’t sight any.

As we turned towards our spot (where the Sultanpur tigress was resting) we saw an unsuspecting Sambar Deer venture slowly towards the water hole. The far away gypsies motioned towards us to stop dead in our tracks, lest we disturb either the predator or the prey. They were seeing the tigress stalking the deer and we the deer moving towards certain death. We cursed ourselves for having moved away from the spot as the tigress was now out of sight. But the deer was in sight and if a kill happened we would see it and that would be the highlight of the trip. We waited with bated breath for action to unfold. As fate would have it, the Sambar Deer spotted the tigress and immediately ran for his life. The hungry tigress now emerged in front of us on the vehicle track to once again give us a good frontal view. Light was now falling quickly. We shot pictures in burst, saw the tigress mark her territory and after following her for a while decided to go back near the water hole to take some pictures of the T-12 male tiger.

It was past 6.00 PM and we had to now rush for the exit as staying in the park beyond 6:30 PM would attract penalty for the gypsy. We bid goodbye to the two tigers and to the Ranthambore National Park and drove out enjoying the setting sun, which was looking lovely as a dust storm loomed on the horizon.

We had come hoping to see tigers – even one would have been fine, even if we got to see its tail would have been OK for us. But in the jungle it’s all a matter of luck. If you respect it, it may reward you. Nobody ever returned empty handed from the courts of Rajput Kings….neither did we. We had five excellent tiger sightings (including Machali who may be gone by the time we visit next) and a bird count of 70 over three days and would be the envy of many of our friends. At night we boarded the train to Mumbai and all through the journey the memories of the beautiful park, its residents and the people of Sawai Madhopur lingered on our minds and continues to this date and time….I am already thinking of going back again…Long live the Tigers of Ranthambhore!

Travel tip: In case you are planning to visit Ranthambhore National Park, I would highly recommend you contact these folks - http://quintet.in/tours/weekends-with-tigers/. They are experts in wildlife tourism and did a fantastic job in arranging my trip. Ranthambhore is easily doable over a three day weekend and the best part is that safari bookings can also be done online! Nearest rail-head is Sawai Madhopur (14 kms) and nearest airport is Jaipur (132 kms). I would also take the liberty and suggest you brave the heat and visit the park in Summer. You won’t regret it, we didn’t!

Bird watching over last few months - @ Sewri, Mumbai

2010-03-28T16:58:00.006+05:30

This post is in continuation of my previous one. Shown below are pictures of some of the other birds I spotted @ Sewri during the BNHS flamingo festival on 27th March 2010.

Common Sandpiper

Herons

In non-breeding plumage (above)

In breeding plumage (above)

Sea gulls

In breeding colours (above)

In non-breeding colours (above)

Brahminy kite

In the above picture one can see a Brahminy kite flying over a sea of flamingos.

Bird watching over last few months - Flamingos of Sewri, Mumbai

2010-03-28T16:53:00.036+05:30

Portrait of a flamingo

Lesser flamingos (called Rohit in Hindi) are beautiful wading birds (long necked and long legged) with pink plumage. They have a bill that is shaped uniquely to filter algae, small invertebrates and other food particles from the water while holding their head upside down. They migrate in winter from the Rann of Kutch (located in the western State of Gujarat), where they breed, to various parts of India and are found in Mumbai along its eastern coastline from Sewri to Airoli. An estimated 15,000 Lesser and Greater flamingos flock to this area every year!

Spreading its wings

Flamenco dancer?

Engrossed in meal

Contemplating

I had been to Sewri jetty as part of the flamingo festival, which was organised by BNHS (Bombay Natural History Society) on 27th March 2010 to create awareness about these birds and to impress upon the Government the importance of the mudflats of Sewri - Mahul and its adjoining areas as a hotbed of avifauna. The area is a designated Important Bird Area (IBA). BNHS has been at the forefront of organising awareness and conservation camps across India. My personal congratulations to the BNHS team for the excellent arrangements made by them at the site.

Incidentally this was my second visit to Sewri. On the previous occasion, the cops stationed over there had forbidden me from taking photographs citing some terror advisory.

The festival, despite the sweltering afternoon heat of Mumbai, attracted several hundred visitors (laymen, bird watchers, ornithologists, wildlife conservators, media and plenty of kids!). Many were coming there for the first time...Sewri jetty is perhaps the last place on the mind of any Mumbaikar to imagine spending an evening at. Upon reaching there, the visitors were thrilled to see thousands of pink flamingos scattered across the bed. I overheard people saying that they came expecting to see a few flamingos...certainly not thousands! Apart from flamingos, once could spot other birds as well - brown headed sea gull, pond heron, western reef egret, white-throated kingfisher, brahminy kite, and several waders such as the common sandpiper, etc.

Sewri jetty is about 10 - 15 minutes walk from the Sewri railway station (Harbour Line) on its eastern side. Prabodhankar Thackeray Udyan, located close to the Sewri station on western side, is also well connected by BEST buses to various parts of Mumbai. The best time during the day to watch waders is couple of hours before / after the high tide. One can check out the tide timings in Mumbai here - http://bit.ly/3haRZ

I am already looking forward to seeing them again when they come back in winter. Some of the other popular spots in India where one can sight flamingos in their natural habitat are - Malshej Ghat (little over 120 kms from Mumbai), Bhigwan (also called the Bharatpur of Maharashtra is little under 100 kms from Pune), Rann of Kutch (Gujarat), Nalsarovar (Gujarat), Bharatpur (Rajasthan), Sambhar lake (Rajasthan), Chilka lake (Orissa), etc..

Please see my Flickr photo-stream for more pictures of flamingos and the BNHS flamingo festival - http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelegendreturns/sets/72157623593874401/show/